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Southport Seamounts Pelagic, February 2024

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Band-rumped Storm-Petrel

Highlights of the 3-night, 2-day Southport Seamounts trip organised by Paul Walbridge from February 9-12 included Band-rumped Storm-Petrel; a Collared Petrel; good numbers of Gould’s Petrel, Black-winged Petrel and White-necked Petrel; and huge numbers of Grey-faced Petrel. After leaving early Friday evening aboard the cosy Grinner II we ended up mid-morning at 27.3735S, 155.0996E, 100 nautical miles offshore in 228 fathoms on the Queensland Seamount - roughly in a line east of Pt Lookout, North Stradbroke Island. We remained in this general area over the weekend, with some time spent motoring back from drifting. Conditions varied little over our time out wide: strong winds 18-25 knots SE gusting to 30 knots with a 2.5m swell and choppy seas. A tad uncomfortable but good conditions for seabirds.

Grey-faced Petrel feeding frenzy

Paul’s full report is forthcoming. Suffice here to sum up some highlights. A Band-rumped Storm-Petrel  flew in early afternoon on Saturday and appeared to be much attracted to toy floating storm-petrels that Jacob Crisp had put together. It showed well, hanging around the back of the boat for 20 minutes or so.

Band-rumped Storm-Petrel

Band-rumped Storm-Petrel

Jacob got onto a decent pale phase Collared Petrel which I saw briefly but his were the only images, and nobody else saw the bird unfortunately. I had seen the species previously in the eastern Coral Sea. It's a rarely encountered taxa with a few records in south-east Queensland. A couple of dark Gould’s-type petrels also looked like contenders for a while. Gould’s Petrels were frequently about the boat and it was a delight to see so many.

Gould's Petrel

Gould's Petrel

Gould's Petrel

Black-winged Petrels were in fewer number than Gould’s but more inclined to offer nice, close fly-bys.

Black-winged Petrel

Black-winged Petrel

Black-winged Petrel

Like most seabirds over the weekend, there was a substantial appetite for the berley. Grey-faced Petrels were particularly voracious. This was the most common species by far, with over 50-100 birds often in the vicinity of the boat. Large numbers continued to be about even after sunset.

Grey-faced Petrel

Grey-faced Petrel
Grey-faced Petrel

White-necked Petrel performed beautifully, with at least 8 birds logged including 2 together. This is a cracker of a seabird that never disappoints.

White-necked Petrel

White-necked Petrel

White-necked Petrel

Kermadec Petrel was in reasonable numbers with dark, pale and intermediate phases on show.

Kermadec Petrel (dark phase)l

Kermadec Petrel (light phase)

Kermadec Petrel (intermediate phase)

Tahiti Petrel was the second most common species, with small numbers of birds about the boat throughout the weekend.

Tahiti Petrel

Tahiti Petrel

White-bellied Storm-Petrel put in a brief appearance on a few occasions, but there was no sign of the hoped-for New Caledonian Storm-Petrel.

White-bellied Storm-Petrel

White-bellied Storm-Petrel

Wedge-tailed Shearwater was relatively common but just a handful of Flesh-footed Shearwaters appeared.

Flesh-footed Shearwater

White-tailed Tropicbird was seen twice flying high. A single Red-tailed Tropicbird was near the boat at dusk.

White-tailed Tropicbird

A Red-footed Booby roosted on the boat on Saturday night and joined by a second bird in the morning.

Red-footed Booby

Adult and immature Sooty Terns were frequent visitors to the berley trail.

Sooty Tern

A few Brown Noddies were seen along with a single Black Noddy.

Brown Noddy

SPECIES LIST: Tahiti Petrel, Grey-faced Petrel, Kermadec Petrel, White-necked Petrel, Collared Petrel, Gould’s Petrel, Wedge-tailed Shearwater, Flesh-footed Shearwater, White-bellied Storm-Petrel, Band-rumped Storm-Petrel, Red-tailed Tropicbird, White-tailed Tropicbird, Red-footed Booby. Brown Noddy, Black Noody, Sooty Tern. 16 species



Night Parrot: Death by Barbed Wire

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The Night Parrot found by Shorty Cupitt

Robert (“Shorty”) Cupitt remembers well the warm September day in 2006 when he was doing maintenance work around stock routes and fences in the vicinity of Diamantina National Park in western Queensland. He found a small dead parrot on the ground that looked unfamiliar. It turned out to be a Night Parrot - just the second confirmed record of this enigmatic species recorded over the previous century. The parrot was below a barbed wire fence. “There were feathers from the bird stuck on the top strand of barbed wire,” Cupitt tells me. “It was decapitated, killed by flying and hitting the fence.”

Night Parrot

In a 2008 paper in Australian Field Ornithology that published the historic finding, Cupitt issued a clear warning: “It highlights the danger posed to birds, including rare or threatened species, by the many kilometres of barbed wire traversing the landscape.” Cupitt’s find led to the bird being photographed for the first time by John Young in 2013, and the creation of the 56,000ha Pullen Pullen Reserve encompassing critical Night Parrot habitat by Bush Heritage Australia in 2016. 

Pullen Pullen

As I noted in an article in the latest edition of The Weekend Australian, another Night Parrot was killed after striking a barbed wire boundary fence on Pullen Pullen in 2019. With the region’s parrot population estimated at a total of 10-20 birds, that is a significant loss. Says Cupitt: “It’s barbed wire all the way along some of those boundary fences, including the top strand.” A barbed wire fence separates the 3-4 known roosting Night Parrot sites of the Pullen Pullen parrot population from each other and from feeding grounds they fly to each night. Until this week, BHA had little to say about the fatality (more on that later).

Pullen Pullen boundary fence

Outside Pullen Pullen, small numbers of parrots have been located in Western Australia. Last year, a Night Parrot was retrieved by traditional owners after being found injured, hanging by its wing from a barbed wire fence; it died soon after. The Night Parrot is critically endangered: we now know of three individuals killed by barbed wire fences, and the death toll is certain to be higher. 

Prepared specimen of recently killed Night Parrot in WA: WA Museum

In 2016, then Night Parrot Recovery Team Allan Burbidge head warned of the consequences of a plan by the Australian Wildlife Conservancy to build a predator-proof fenced enclosure in Diamantina National Park, more than 20km from Pullen Pullen. Said Burbidge: “It seems likely that a predator-proof fence within night parrot habitat might pose a threat to a bird that flies 15 km or so each night. For a population with perilously low numbers, the effect could be highly significant.” The plan was scuttled. Yet the recovery team has had nothing to say about the Pullen Pullen fencing.

Diamantina National Park

BHA has run white electric tape along the top of some fences in a bid to deter parrots from striking them. In a statement published on the BHA website this week - following The Weekend Australian story - Pullen Pullen ecologist Nick Leseberg offers further details about the 2019 victim. Says Leseberg: “This section of the fence hadn’t been flagged, as we didn’t think it was an area where the Night Parrots would be traversing. By this time we’d removed tens of kilometres of unnecessary fence, including the entire southern boundary with Diamantina National Park, but this really brought home the risk these fences pose. We’d love to remove all of them, but the reality is this is pastoral country and we need fences to keep cattle out of Pullen Pullen.” 

Leseberg and his colleagues have done some fine research work on Pullen Pullen. They are not helped by the peculiar perspective that BHA has of public relations. The organisation has taken a leaf out of the Donald Trump playbook by ignoring journalists it doesn’t fancy - like me. BHA told me bluntly it would not be responding to anything I put to them. BHA’s silence becoming part of the story in the national broadsheet newspaper speaks volumes.

Nick Leseberg

It also speaks to a cultural problem that has been evident since BHA’s acquisition of Pullen Pullen. The wider birding community is often regarded with a degree of contempt. Twitchers are collectively considered a potential threat to the species. Those outside BHA’s inner sanctum of scientists are unwelcome. BHA said this in a revealing statement last October: “In 2013, in the remote corners of western Queensland on Maiawali Country where spinifex grows in abundance – the perfect habitat for the bird – the Night Parrot was rediscovered by scientists.” It was in fact rediscovered in 2006 by Shorty Cupitt, and photographed in 2013 by John Young; neither are scientists. 

Feral cat
BHA refused to respond to questions I put to them about current population estimates; the consequences for the population of successive years of good summer rains; and the impacts of population booms of feral cats and long-haired rats in the area. Those issues are to some extent now belatedly addressed in this week’s statement. Leseberg confirms that the bountiful years of wet weather were a plus: “The floodplains were really benefiting from the exclusion of cattle and there were as many Night Parrots on Pullen Pullen and (neighbouring property) Mt Windsor as I had ever seen. There were four known sites with birds, and potentially two others where we heard birds on a couple of occasions. I think there could have been as many as twelve or fourteen birds across the two properties.” 

The good times led to a big increase in cat numbers. BHA tripled the number of planned cat control trips. Trips would typically be for two weeks, with each trip removing 50 cats by mid-2023. Says Leseberg: “It wasn’t all bad news though. The stomachs of the cats were examined to determine what they were eating, and we were only finding rats, nothing else.” By the end of 2023, rat numbers were dwindling and although cat numbers remained high, there was evidence they were losing condition with fewer pregnant females. Referring to the bird’s present status, he adds: “We’re still detecting them across three to four sites, but at some of those sites the detections are not as regular. We don’t know if these mean there are fewer birds, or if they are moving around more.”

Long-haired Rat

It would be interesting to know if the long-haired rat plague had its own impacts, although that issue is not addressed in this week’s statement. Rats are voracious predators of eggs and nesting birds. Might that be a factor in the latest population shift that Leseberg refers to? Instead of regarding questions like that as threatening or inappropriate or whatever, BHA could be doing the bird a service with a little more inclusiveness and dialogue.

Pullen Pullen


Taveuni in Fiji: Silktail & Orange Dove

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Taveuni Silktail 

A 6-day stay on the delightful island of Taveuni in Fiji was the first cab off the rank for our recent overseas tour. I’d been to Fiji before but not to Taveuni, famed for two extraordinary birds: the enigmatic Taveuni Silktail (this, the Natewa Silktail from a neighbouring island, and the Pygmy Drongo from New Guinea, are the sole members of the family Lamproliidae); and the gorgeous Orange Dove. We flew from Brisbane to Nadi, where Fiji Parrotfinch and Fiji Wattled Honeyeater were among birds near the hotel the next morning.

Fiji Parrotfinch

Fiji Wattled Honeyeater

We took the short flight the following morning to Taveuni and stayed at the Maravu Taveuni Lodge. Not much around the lodge other the ubiquitous Pacific Kingfisher .

Pacific Kingfisher

I arranged to be picked up very early the next morning by the driver Ajay Narayan for a half-day on Des Voueux Peak – the go-to site for regional specialties and an hour’s drive to the south. I could have hired a guide as well but Ajay knew where to go and I had no problem knocking off all the targets other than Shy Ground-Dove, which is very difficult in Fiji. First was Maroon Shining-Parrot, which was vocal in some numbers in secondary forest at the base of the mountain in poor light. Collared Lory was also common.


Ajay

We drove to the locked gate at the top of the road. There’s no point in birding beyond the gate. In its vicinity I saw a female Azure-crested Flycatcher and an Island Thrush roadside. The thrush proved to be fairly common and I saw a male flycatcher later but didn’t manage an image of the species.

Island Thrush

There is a famous trail about 200m south of the gate that goes into the forest. About 500m down the trail I found a pair of Taveuni Silktails. They are extaordinary birds - a mix of bird-of-paradise and flycatcher with dazzling metallic blue colouring, elaborate displays and constant movements. On the way back I found an even more co-operative pair of silktails.



Also on this track I spotted a female Orange Dove: its mate would have to wait. I heard and then saw a skulking female Black-faced Shrikebill in the undergrowth. Fiji Shrikebill was more co-operative and I saw several.

Fiji Shrikebill

Orange Dove (female)

Barking Imperial-Pigeon and Many-coloured Fruit-Dove were calling commonly. In the forest several Fiji Steaked Fantails were encountered and Fiji Bush-Warbler was common.

Fiji Bush-Warbler

Fiji Streaked Fantail

Fiji Wattled Honeyeater was also common. A few hundred metres down the mountain we stopped where Ajay had recently spotted the somewhat rare Yellow-billed Honeyeater. The bird was seen well but I managed just one poor image. A brightly endowed male Fiji Whistler was also spotted along with a few Fiji Parrotfinches.

Yellow-billed Honeyeater

Further on we final scored nice if somewhat distant views of a couple of male Orange Doves. This bird is a stunner; words can’t describe it. A couple of Polynesian Trillers were also about in the area.


Orange Dove (male)

We called in to check out a large colony of Fiji Flying-Foxes on the coast on the way back to the hotel.

Fiji Flying-Fox

Several pairs of Vanikoro Flycatcher were about the hotel.

Vanikoro Flycatcher

The next day we did a shorter drive with Ajay around the island’s north coast to the village of Lavena. Along here we had better views of Maroon-chested Parrot and Barking Imperial-Pigeon, while Fiji Goshawk perched on the wires.

Barking Imperial-Pigeon

Maroon Shining-Parrot

Fiji Goshawk

SPECIES (TAVEUNI ONLY): Fiji Goshawk (1), Red Junglefowl (6), White-faced Heron (6), Lesser Frigatebird (2), Many-coloured Fruit-Dove (12), Orange Dove (3 seen, others heard), Barking Imperial-Pigeon (10)), Collared Lory (20), Maroon Shining-Parrot (15), Pacific Kingfisher (20), White-rumped Swiftlet (30), Taveuni Silktail (4), Fiji Streaked Fantail (8), Azure-crested Flycatcher (2), Fiji Bush-Warbler (8), Polynesian Triller (2), Fiji Whistler (1), Island Thrush (7), Black-throated Shrikebill (1), Fiji Shrikebill (5), Vanikoro Flycatcher (6), Layard’s White-eye (8), Orange-breasted Myzomela (6), Yellow-billed Honeyeater (1), Fiji Wattled Honeyeater (10), Fiji Woodswallow (1), Pacific Swallow (5), Polynesian Starling (4), Fiji Parrotfinch (8), Australian Magpie (6). 29 species, 6 lifers




Lesser Antilles Cruise Part 1 – Antigua to Martinique

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Martinique Oriole

We opted for an 11-day cruise of the Lesser Antilles with a schedule giving options for the highest number of potential bird specialties and endemics in that timeframe. I’d previously done the Greater Antilles so was focused on East Caribbean targets. The itinerary included the independent states of Antigua & Barbuda, St Lucia and Dominica; and the island territories of Martinique (France), St Thomas (US Virgin Islands) and Grand Turk (the UK’s Turks and Caicos). Our cruise departed from the giant US ferry terminal in Fort Lauderdale, Florida.

Our cruise ship in Antigua

The cruise allows the best part of a full day at each of these six port stops, so it is possible to head off in search of birds with a local taxi driver or to hire a guide for a morning or a day. Or to simply wander around sight-seeing. I hired guides on St Lucia and Dominica – the two most critical destinations for birds.

St John's: capital of Antigua & Barbuda

The port of St John’s on Antigua was our first stop. Here I scored the first two Lesser Antilles targets – Lesser Antillean Bullfinch, which was abundant on all islands; and Caribbean Martin, with a pair nesting around the wharf. The martin was encountered just once more on our voyage (a pair on Dominica), so this one could potentially be missed on a cruise.


Lesser Antillean Bullfinch

Other birds on Antigua in a small wetland behind the cruise terminal and elsewhere about St John’s included a surprising Yellow-crowned Night-Heron and White-crowned Pigeon, which was common here though not encountered elsewhere on the trip. Zenaida Dove and Grey Kingbird were plentiful and widespread on other islands.

Coast of Antigua

Non-birdy critters were present in the form of Leach’s Anole (Anolis leachii) - one of a group of peculiar dragons found in the Lesser Antilles.

Leach's Anole

As we headed south aboard our vessel, the Enchanted Princess, relatively few seabirds were encountered though Brown Pelican was in frequent presence around the ship. Magnificent Frigatebird and White-tailed Tropicbird were fairly common, with the occasional Red-billed Tropicbird seen. Sooty Tern and Bridled Tern were about in small flocks.

Magnificent Frigatebird

Our next port was Fort de France, the capital of France’s beautiful and moutainous island territory of Martinique.

Fort-de-France
We took a taxi to Jardin de Balata, the island’s botanic gardens a half-hour drive through Martinique’s central mountains. The gardens are considered to be among the world’s finest. We had a pleasant morning here.

Jardin de Balata

The first bird seen apart from the ubiquitous Carib Grackle was Caribbean Elaenia (subspecies martinica). I had seen the species before on the island of Cozumel, Mexico, and it was present on other islands during this trip. I found a Lesser Antillean Pewee of the subspecies brunneicapillus. This species I had seen previously in Peurto Rico. The subspecies on Martinique, Dominica and Guadeloupe (the latter island we did not visit) is a strong split contendor, as is the St Lucia subspecies. Lesser Antillean Flycatcher, widespread in the Lesser Antilles, was a lifer seen briefly.

Caribbean Elaenia

I saw a female Blue-headed Honeyeater, a species shared only with Dominica. Antillean Crested Hummingbird, which I had seen on Peurto Rico, put in a brief appearance. More showy and co-operative were the numerous Purple-throated Caribs (below) attending nectar feeders around the entrance building.



The star of the show was Martinique’s sole endemic species – the Martinique Oriole. This one (below)  took a fair bit of work but finally one showed nicely in the park grounds.


Grey Trembler, also found on St Lucia, put on quite a show as it perched in the sub-canopy vigorously shaking its wings. Scaly-breasted Thrasher was seen briefly while Pearly-eyed Thrasher – another old friend from the Greater Antilles – was seen well, although it is less common here than elsewhere in the 
Lesser Antilles. Bare-eyed (Spectacled) thrush was added to the list, as was Lesser Antillean Saltator, seen better on other islands later.

Grey Trembler

Another potential split is the rivierei subspecies of the Broad-winged Hawk, seen in the gardens and elsewhere on the island. Found also on Dominica and St Lucia, this race is likely to be split together with two other subspecies: one on Antigua and one on Grenada, St Vincent and Tobago.

Broad-winged Hawk

Another attention grabber was a huge Antilles Pinktoe Tarantula (Caribena versicolor) - below- in the middle of a path in the gardens in broad daylight.



Martinique was a gem to visit and we looked forward to our next island destinations.


Ebird list for Martinique

Lesser Antilles Cruise Part 2: St Lucia

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White-breasted Thrasher

Following our visit to Martinique (next post) we sailed south to the island state of St Lucia in the southern Lesser Antilles. St Lucia has something of a mixed reputation. Fine mountain and coastal scenery; one of the world’s highest murder rates; a superb collection of birds that makes St Lucia a desirable destination for world listers. The island has 4 endemic species; 2 species shared with one other island; and several well-defined subspecies likely to be future splits.


St Lucia's east coast

A joy of cruise birding is that you have full-day stops in ports that allow plenty of opportunity to look for birds. It’s possible to see all the St Lucia specialties during a cruise port stop, as I did with ease. My initial error was to hire a guide for the two of us for a full day with Wildlife Ambassadors, a tour company based in the capital, Castries. The cost was a somewhat expensive $US280 (lunch $40 extra), but after the deal was sealed, the cost was raised to $360. This happened amid much confusion about whether I was able - or wanted - to join a larger group at a lower cost. Little to zero information was available about these larger groups. Then just 4 days before my scheduled day on St Lucia,I was told there would be no “private tours" at all and I would have to join a group of six. The other clients were from another cruise ship that was departing earlier than mine, thus cutting short my birding day. This I learned myself; the company had ignored my questions about whether the second cruise ship was leaving earlier than mine.


Castries

Luckily I managed to track down a guide called Vision, who was once associated with Wildlife Ambassadors but had fallen out with the company. Vision was a lively and well-connected companion; he spoke superb English and was an expert bird tracker. There were just the two of us as clients at a fair cost in his excellent vehicle. Vision met us at Castries after leaving the ship and we drove across the island to the Preslin area on the east coast - a rugged patch of dry limestone scrub.

With Vision in the field

Here we soon found a Lesser Antillean Pewee of the endemic and distinctive subspecies latirostris– an excellent candidate for a split.

Lesser Antillean (St Lucia) Peewee

Lesser Antillean Flycatcher of the local subspecies sanctaeluciae showed well in the scrub and later in the wet mountain forest we were to visit; I also saw other races of this species on Martinique and Dominica. Lesser Antillean Saltator was seen again after a glimpse on Martinique.

Lesser Antillean Flycatcher

Then came one of the star birds of the trip. White-breasted Thrasher is restricted to coastal limestone scrub on St Lucia and Martinique. It took some time tracking but eventually Vision pointed quietly to some leaves behind a tree trunk that were being shuffled about. “The bird is there and will appear in a moment,” he whispered. And it did. This stunner jumped up on a rock, showing brilliantly, then to a branch were it preened briefly before disappearing.

White-breasted Thrasher

We left the coast for the Des Cartiers Rainforest Trail, high in the mountains of central St Lucia. A run-down picnic area serves as a starting point for the trail and birders unwise enough to leave valuables in vehicles have returned to find them gone. The endemic St Lucia Parrot can be difficult but fortunately 2 birds were seen well flying between forest patches along the road to the trail, with another couple seen from the trail and others heard.

St Lucia Parrot

On the trail we found another much-wanted endemic – a male St Lucia Black Finch quietly wagging its tail deep in the rainforest vegetation. We saw a third endemic, St Lucia Warbler, both in the rainforest and in the coastal scrub, but frustratingly didn’t manage a photograph. Also in the forest was a Rufous-throated Solitaire of the St Lucia subspecies sanctaeluciae; I had seen the species in the Greater Antilles.


St Lucia Black Finch

Another to avoid the camera was the final endemic – St Lucia Oriole. Individual birds were seen well but briefly on two occasions in the rainforest canopy. A single Lesser Antillean Euphonia – another species that can be difficult – was seen somewhat distantly, with several others heard. All targets accounted for. We finished our excursion with a visit to a lively fishing port market, with large numbers of Magnificent Frigatebirds vying for fish scraps.

Fish market

Along the Des Cartiers Trail

Ebird lists for Des Cartiers rainforest and white-breasted thrasher site


Lesser Antilles Cruise Part 3: Dominica to Grand Turk

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Red-necked Parrot

After a successful clean-up of targets on St Lucia, our cruise vessel headed north to Roseau, the capital of the island state of Dominica (often confused with the Dominican Republic in the Greater Antilles). St Lucia and Dominica were the most important of the six ports on our cruise schedule for birders. I again planned to hire a guide, hopefully with less hassle than the St Lucia shenanigans. I’d hoped to corner “Dr Birdy”, Bertrand Baptiste, who is something of an avian legend locally. Bertrand was not available so I instead hired his able assistant, Ricardo, a sharp observer and good company in the field.


Ricardo at first parrot lookout

There is just one primary site for the Dominica targets: the Syndicate Nature Trail and access road to Morne Diablotin National Park in the island’s north. On a day trip to Dominica during a cruise, there is insufficient time to locate a key target, Forest Thrush, which occurs primarily in southern Dominica and elsewhere is found only on Guadeloupe, which we were not visiting. The Syndicate Trail is especially important for Dominica’s two endemic parrots – Red-necked Parrot and Imperial Parrot, the latter being the largest neotropical parrot.


Valley view from parrot lookouts

We saw several Red-necked Parrots flying between forest patches along the access road on the way up the mountain, and quite a few more from three lookouts along the trail that overlooks a heavily forested valley. 

Red-necked Parrot

The critically endangered Imperial Parrot is much more scarce - with as few as 50 wild birds surviving - and is often missed on birding trips. As soon as we arrived at the first lookout, however, an Imperial Parrot called loudly from vegetation immediately below us. It did not show and another hour passed before we heard a second bird from another lookout distantly. The parrot appeared briefly as it flew through the canopy opposite the lookout. At this point, Dr Birdy turned up with another tour group he was leading. We heard more Imperial Parrots faintly and he scoped one in a distant tree: an impressive feat of spotting. The bird was joined by its mate and the pair offered reasonable if distant flight views (the image below was the best I could manage but shows its distinctive shape) before flying much closer, showing nicely as they disappeared into the vegetation.


(Very distant) Imperial Parrot 

Along the road to the mountains we encountered the first Lesser Antillean Swifts of the trip feeding over a field. A few more swifts were seen in the forested valley from the lookouts. This is another target that can be missed on a cruise trip; I did not see it on other islands.


Lesser Antillean Swift

Roseau, capital of Dominica

Also en route to Morne Diablotin we encountered a few Caribbean Martins outside a village. These were the only ones logged for the trip other than a pair seen during our first port call at Antigua.


Caribbean Martin

Along the forest trail we we heard several skulking endemic Plumbeous Warblers and eventually saw a couple in the thick undergrowth. A Rufous-throated Solitaire of the endemic race dominicanus was seen.


Plumbeous Warbler

Also in the forest was a calling House Wren of the endemic race rufescens showing nicely. This and other House Wren subspecies in the Lesser Antilles sound and look quite different to their better known cousins and are surely good candidates for splits.


(Dominican) House Wren

At the well-kept national park headquarters at the trail entrance we had Mangrove Cuckoo calling before finding our final target – a Brown Trembler, vigorously shuffling its wings in the subcanopy.


Brown Trembler

The usually skulky Scaly-breasted Thrasher showed nicely.

Scaly-breasted Thrasher 

Two male Blue-headed Honeyeaters buzzed around in forest near the trail lookouts – the only ones seen other than a single female on Martinique. Along the access road we had nice views of Purple-throated Carib, Green-throated Carib and Antillean Crested Hummingbird. All three were widespread during the trip; the latter two I had seen previously in Puerto Rico.

Antillean Crested Hummingbird

Green-throated Carib

After the vessel left Dominica, I saw from the ship deck a flock of 4 Audubon’s Shearwaters feeding about 20 nautical miles north-west of the island. A few more Audubon Shearwaters were seen before we reached our next port stop - Charlotte Amelia, the capital of the island of St Thomas in the US Virgin Islands. 

Charlotte Amelia - capital of St Thomas

St Thomas north coast

We visited the newly opened botanic gardens, seeing Scaly-naped Pigeon close, a fantastic display of orchids and a Grass Anole (Anolis pulchellus). This port call was mostly a sight-seeing trip through the historic town.

Grass Anole

Botanic garden orchids

After leaving St Thomas, I was very happy to see a Black-capped Petrel at sea from the ship at 21.34836N, 70.47093W. The bird was distant but its distinctive features, shape and flight were clearly observed. The species is known to nest only on the islands of Hispaniola (in both Haiti and the Dominican Republic) and Dominica. The sighting was not overly distant from Hispaniola. Also seen was a pod of what I identified as Melon-headed Whales. Other opinions are welcome.

Pygmy Killer Whales

Our final port call was Grand Turk in the UK territory of Turks and Caicos islands. I looked unsuccessfully here for Bahama Woodstar, a Bahamas endemic which occurs sporadically on Grand Turk. Instead I made do with old friends like Tricoloured Heron and White-eyed Vireo.


Tricoloured Heron

White-eyed Vireo

All up, in addition to two seabird lifers, I saw 20 of 30 Lesser Antilles species that I had not seen previously. Seeing them all would have required also visiting Barbuda, Montserrat, Grenada, St Vincent & the Grenadines, Barbados and Guadeloupe. Other than the woodstar I missed two potential targets: Forest Thrush (for reasons explained above) and Bridled Quail-Dove (seen most easily on Antigua and St Thomas among the islands we visited, but I spent little time birding on those two). To sum up, birding during day stops on cruises can be a rewarding and relaxing way of cornering difficult targets.

Ebird list for Dominica

Trip Report on Surfbirds

Grand Turk


Canada & United States – a month of mountains, critters, friends and snow

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Northern Pygmy-Owl

Following a week-long visit to the island of Taveuni in Fiji and an 11-day cruise through the Lesser Antilles, we had almost a month in the United States and Canada. First off was a 3-night stay in Fort Lauderdale, Florida. We did day trips to Jonathon Dickson State Park; the historic centre of Fort Lauderdale; and the Everglades, with the latter focused on the Wildlife Management Areas of Holey Land and Rotenberger. Highlights included lifers Swamp Sparrow and Florida Scrub-Jay, American Alligator and finally seeing that huge expanse of wetland (mind-boggling from the air) known as The Everglades.

Rotenberger, Everglades

American Alligator

Swamp Sparrow

We flew to Portland, Oregon, where we were picked up at the airport by our friends Charlie and Frank and driven an hour east for a 3-night stay in their forest home near Hood River. The view from the house of nearby Mt Hood was something to behold. We had a great day exploring the lower slopes of Mt Hood, and although it was early Spring (late-March), there was plenty of snow about. 


Mt Hope

Highlights were the wonderful scenery, lifers American Goshawk and Townsend’s Chipmunk, engaging Canada Jays on Mt Hood, Anna’s Hummingbird at the house feeder, and having quality time with our distant mates.

Anna's Hummingbird

Canada Jay

Townsend's Chipmunk

Next we flew to Vancouver in Canada, picking up a hire car and overnighting in the city before heading north to Whistler for a 3-night cabin stay at Parkbridge Riverside. Nice to see Harlequin Duck at Squamish on the way.


Harlequin Duck

More great scenery about Whistler. We took the gondola ski run to the tops of Mt Whistler and Mt Blackcomb, where hoped-for ptarmigans and rosy-finches failed to materialise, but the sweeping snowscape compensated.


Mt Whistler


Steller’s Jay, Northern Flicker and Yellow-Pine Chipmunk were among critters about the cabin, while lifer Red Fox-Sparrow was in the woods nearby. Close  Lifer Pine Grosbeak was seen near Pemberton after leaving Whistler. We were somewhat taken aback by how cold it was and how much snow was about.

Red Fox-Sparrow


Yellow-Pine Chipmunk

Northern Flicker

Steller's Jay

Next stop was Lillooet for another 3-night stop, another cabin with this one overlooking the Fraser River in Fraser Cove Campground. Drier and somewhat warmer here, but the stunning mountain scenery didn’t go away.

Lillooet

 Highlights were distant Mountain Goats scoped from the cabin balcony on a high ridge across the valley, and lifer Sooty Grouse. Nice birds about the cabin included Spotted Towhee and Golden-crowned Kinglet.

Golden-crowned Kinglet

Spotted Towhee

Mule Deer were numerous. Heading further north we found quite a few Bighorn Sheep in roadside paddocks, but no rams with big horns.


Bighorn Sheep

Mule Deer

We moved on to Bear Valley for another 3-night cabin stay, at Bear Valley Highlands. This cabin was a trip highlight; one of just two on the property and the other was vacant. Beautifully situated and fitted out, we enjoyed more glorious scenery with plenty of forest and a small lake to explore.


Bear Valley

A pair of Barrow’s Goldeneye were on the lake and elsewhere birds included lifers Red-naped Sapsucker, Black-backed Woodpecker and Boreal Chickadee. Hairy Woodpecker and Downy Woodpecker showed nicely.Another trip highlight was tracking down a delightful Northern Pygmy-Owl during the day (first image).

Barrow's Goldeneye

Downy Woodpecker

Hairy Woodpecker

Red-naped Sapsucker

The night before our arrival, a cougar killed a Mule Deer on the road a short distance from the cabin. All that remained were the deer’s rumen and intestines in two neat piles, and a broad blood trail where the carcass was dragged into surrounding forest.


Cougar kill blood trail

Next was a 3-night stay in the town of Kelowna at Siesta Suites after visiting en route Swan Lake Grassland Trail at Vernon, where nesting Tree Sparrows were cute, and Swallwell Lake on Beaver Lake Road. 


Tree Swallow

 I dipped on Western Screech-Owl in Kelowna. A visit to Philpott Forest Road turned up Douglas’s Squirrel and Pileated Woodpecker.

Pileated Woodpecker

Douglas's Squirrel

Kelowna is a delightful town located in a valley surrounded by high peaks. Musk Rat was seen in suburban Thomson Marsh Park.


Musk Rat

Kelowna

Last stop on what was a circuit drive around southern British Columbia was a 3-night stay in another cabin at Manning Park Lodge. It was very cold here (with the temperature on one day not exceeding 1 degree C), with snow blocking most side roads and walking trails, and we had some heavy snow falls, which was something of a novelty. I slipped on ice on a trail and fell, damaging my ribs but luckily not my camera..


Lightning Lake, Manning Park

Snow squall at Manning Park

Yellow-bellied Marmot and Columbian Ground-Squirrel were entertaining.


Columbian Ground-Squirrel

Yellow-bellied Marmot

An active beaver lodge was occupied at Beaver Lake. The beautiful Varied Thrush was plentiful.


Varied Thrush

Beaver lodge

After leaving Manning Park we called in at Great Blue Heron Reserve, where we found fresh Black Bear droppings – our first bear encounter of any kind during our visit as it had been too cold and most bears were still hibernating. White-crowned Sparrow and Golden-crowned Sparrow were among birds at a feeder here.


Golden-crowned Sparrow

White-crowned Sparrow

Finally we had 4 nights in Vancouver, enjoying the sights of this lovely city.

Vancouver

We visited Pitt Meadows, a delightful spot where a perched Bald Eagle was a suitable finale for the trip.



Bald Eagle

Itinerary for a Planned Birding Tour of Papua in 2025 - A Feast of Avian Gems

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Red Bird-of-Paradise

A 22-day birding tour of Papua – the Indonesian-owned western half of the island of New Guinea – is planned for June 2025, with November 2025 being a second option. Papua is regarded as a world birding destination of enormous appeal, with highlights featuring fantastic encounters with some of the planet’s outstanding avian gems. This experience offers opportunities to see 18 species of birds-of-paradise and a feast of other goodies ranging from the glorious Western and Victoria Crowned Pigeons to the stately Northern Cassowary and numerous species of brightly-coloured parrots and fruit-doves.

The trip covers Biak Island, the northern lowlands site of Nimbokrang, the famed Arfak Mountains at various altitudes, southern lowlands sites in the Sorong region, and Waigeo Island with its extraordinary Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise. Displays of mega-birds like Western Parotia and Magnificent Bird-of-Paradise will be on offer at staked-out sites including hides.


Wilson's Bird-of-Paradise

We hope to encounter a wealth of endemics including 20 species on Biak that are restricted to the Geelvink Islands, and 15 species confined to the Vogelkop Peninsula, or “Bird’s Head”, of Papua. Others are endemic to the provinces of Papua more widely. Sharp-eyed guides in the Arfaks will hopefully track down three owlet-nightjar species, including the bizarre Feline Owlet-Nightjar. We hope to chalk up a total of 280-300 species. We also expect to locate a sprinkling of mammals, notably several species of possum and cuscus.


Crescent-caped Lophorina

Many birds in Papua are also found in neighbouring Papua New Guinea but the security situation in Papua in the sites we are visiting is more relaxed and safe than much of PNG. Note this itinerary does not include the Papuan central highland sites of Wamena-Lake Habbema. Access to key high altitude specialties is increasingly difficult for tourists due to ongoing conflict between the Indonesian military and Papuan pro-independence rebels. Tour groups travelling to Wamena have lately been restricted to a small area near the town – where all but a few species occur also in the Arfaks or in PNG. Our information from on-the-ground contacts with close ties to the military tell us the situation is not going to improve in the foreseeable future. If it does improve as the tour approaches, we will consider adding a 4-day extension at additional cost.

Unlike other tour groups, we will not be going to Numfor Island from Biak as it has just 2 endemics and the speedboat ride is long, expensive, often uncomfortable, and unreliable due to weather; Numfor chews up two days which can be more profitably expended elsewhere.

Twelve-wired Bird-of-Paradise

Papua is easier these days than in the past due to improved roads and infrastructure, but it remains a relatively challenging destination. Some steep hiking is in order in the Arfak Mountains, though not everyone needs to join all the hikes as there are many targets in the vicinity of the lodge and local guides are on hand to help those remaining behind. We are likely to camp one night higher up in the Arfaks to increase our chances for several species: this option will be open to discussion. It will be warm and humid in the lowlands. Accommodation ranges from decent hotels to basic lodges (as outlined in the itinerary).


Western Parotia

Day 1 Arrive Biak on an international flight from Jakarta - afternoon birding – 3 nights at hotel.

Day 2–3 Exploring Biak: No fewer than 20 Biak/Geelvink Islands endemic species to look for including Biak Paradise Kingfiser, Biak scrubfowl, Biak Lorikeet, Biak Coucal, Biak Scops Owl, Biak Black Flycatcher, Biak White-eye.

Day 4 - Morning birding, fly to Jayapura then drive to Nimbokrang - afternoon birding – 3 nights at a basic guesthouse with en suite bathrooms in most rooms; depending on numbers in the group, 1 room may need share an inside bathroom (we draw straws!).

Days 5-6 - Exploring the lowland and hill forests of Nimbokrang, where species restricted to – or much easier to find in - northern New Guinea can be found. Birds include widespread but spectacular species such as New Guinea Harpy Eagle and Twelve-wired Bird-of-Paradise. Others restricted to the northern lowlands include Red-legged Brushturkey, Victoria Crowned Pigeon, Brown Lory, Salvadori’s Fig-Parrot and Pale-billed Sicklebill.

Day 7 - Transport back to Jayapura - flight to Manokwari - 2 nights at hotel.

Day 8 – Birding at sites from Manokwari looking for lowland and hill forest specialties like Masked Bowerbird and Grey-banded Mannikin, a Papuan endemic.

Day 9 - Transport in a 4WD truck to the Arfak Mountains – 2.5 hours - afternoon birding – 6 nights at a basic mid-elevation guesthouse in the village of Mingre - most rooms with en suite bathrooms (basic washing facilities); depending on numbers in the group, 1 room may need to use an outside bathroom.

King Bird-of-Paradise

Days 10-14 - Exploring the Arfak Mountains for a feast of species at different altitudes. These include many that are widespread in montane forest elsewhere in New Guinea – but easier to see here - along with plenty of species endemic to the Vogelkop Peninsula or Papua more generally. We may opt to spend one night camping in tents at high altitude where a few tricky species are easier to find (to be discussed: we could tackle these on day hikes). We should see displaying birds-of-paradise and bowerbirds from hides at some sites. Excellent birds include displaying Western Parotia, Magnificent Bird-of-Paradise and Crescent-faced Lophorina with many more including Long-tailed Paradigala, Black Sicklebill, Black-billed Sicklebill, Arfak Astrapia, Vogelkop Bowerbird, Papuan Lorikeet, Western Smoky Honeyeater, Cinnamon-browed Melidectes, Ashy Robin, Arfak Catbird.

Day 15 - Transport back to Manokwari - flight to Sorong - ferry to Waigeo Island (2 hours) -  afternoon birding – 3 nights at a diving resort.

Days 16-17 - Exploring Waigeo Island, the highlights being the spectacular Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise and Red Bird-of- Paradise, both of which we hope to see displaying. Others include some that are easier here than on the mainland, such as Western Crowned Pigeon and Brown-headed Crow, or found elsewhere only in far-flung Indonesian islands west or north of Wageo, like Spice Imperial-Pigeon and Violet-necked Lory.

Magnificent Riflebird

Day 18 - Morning birding Waigeo - ferry back to Sorong – 4 nights at hotel.

Days 19-21 – Birding the South New Guinea lowlands around the Klasow Valley, Malagufuk village and other sites in this bird-rich region, using our comfortable Sorong hotel as a base after some ordinary digs in the Arfaks. Another feast of species, many either endemic to Vogelkop Peninsula or more widely to the southern lowlands of New Guinea, or tricky to find elsewhere in New Guinea. They include Northern Cassowary, Blue-black ingfisher, Red-breasted Paradise-Kingfisher, Black Lory, Red-billed Brush-turkey.

Day 22 – Fly home from Sorong

The price includes: All accommodation (hotel and guesthouse); all transportation (domestic air tickets for three flights - Buka-Jayapura, Jayapura-Manokwari, Manokwari-Sorong - cars, van, 4WD truck); park permits, rangers, local guides and porters. All meals (B- L-D), food supplies, mineral water, soft drinks. The price does not include insurance, overweight luggage, alcohol (note that availability is limited these days in Papua), laundry.

The cost is: 6 people = US pp $8,520; 7 people = US pp $8,210. Single supplement $USpp40 per night in some accommodations possible. Papua (like PNG) has always been an expensive destination. As this is a private tour, it can be run at considerably less cost than similar tours on offer. Jakarta is connected to Biak and Sorong by air. It is easiest to book these legs as part of your international flight tickets.

Contact me by email if interested; friarbird.roberts@gmail.com. The tour is being organised in collaboration with Indonesian birding guide Untu Baware.






Hudsonian Godwit Twitch

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Hudsonian Godwit

Two days ago, May 25, birding gun Andy Jensen found a Hudsonian Godwit at a high tide roost off the end of Gregory Road, Mango Hill, in the northern suburbs of Brisbane (within the boundaries of Moreton Bay Regional Council). The bird was seen by a handful of people at the roost around midday before flying off to feed in nearby Hays Inlet.


In flight

The godwit was subsequently seen that afternoon from a platform on the fishing bridge that is the old Hornibrook Highway/Bridge, and on sandflats off the end of Haysmouth Parade, at the northern end of the bridge.


I saw the first Hudsonian Godwit found in Australia, by Chris Corben in Newcastle in 1982, and had not seen the species since in Australia. As far as I’m aware, Andy’s is the first sight record of this vagrant for Queensland; Australia's first recorded Hudsonian Godwit was collected in 1910 on the Great Barrier Reef. So I joined a goodly number of birders at the high tide roost mid-to-late-morning yesterday, May 26 (see Andy’s post on Facebook in South-East Queensland Birders for directions).


Fingers crossed at the high tide roost

The roost is a bit of a slog through sloppy mud. The bird was distant, settled among a flock of about 100 Bar-tailed Godwits and an assortment of Pied Stilts, Pied Oystercatchers, Far Eastern Curlews and other shorebirds. It could be seen readily enough through a scope, but too far for images.


Footprints in the mud. All roads lead to...

A nice first summer male by the looks of it, clearly darker and smaller than the Bar-tailed Godwits, with a fine flourish of breeding plumage colour – shared by just one or two of the Bar-taileds. No Black-tailed Godwits were present. Flushed by a Whistling Kite around midday, the godwits flew off in an easterly direction and did not return. So it was off to Hays Inlet to wait for the tide to drop and hopefully, for the bird to appear on sandflats to feed.


Which it did around 2pm - 2.5 hours after high tide - about 300m west of the end of Haysmouth Parade. It fed reasonably close to some of us who were there, accompanied by a dozen Bar-tailed Godwits before the flock was flushed by a dog. The birds flew east to settle on the water edge below the bridge’s northern end.

Hudsonian Godwit with Bar-tailed Godwit

There were plenty of people wandering the sandflats and fishing on this lovely sunny day but the birds did not appear to be overly concerned or flighty, dogs and raptors notwithstanding.


Hudsonian Godwit (centre bird, below the vehicle) graces Hornibrook Highway

We were able to watch it at quite close quarters for the best part of an hour. Features visible while feeding included the relatively bold supercilium, breeding plumage rufous extending to the belly, the smallish amount of black on the tail and the ever so slightly upturned but quite straight bill. 

Hudsonian Godwit with Pied Stilts

Unfortunately it didn’t raise a wing during the frenetic feeding but distinctive features – black underwing coverts and a small but obvious white upper wing bar – could be picked up in flight.

The flock was eventually flushed, again by a Whistling Kite, and disappeared into the bright mid-afternoon sunlight east of the bridge, appearing to scatter in small groups. It was doubtlessly still in the general area when I left around 4pm. It looks as though this will be the best area to get reasonably close to the bird, ideally on a falling tide. Given the time of year – late May – it is likely the godwit will not be heading north to breed and may be around for a while.




The endangered Black-breasted Buttonquail and the dilemma that is the exotic weed lantana

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Black-breasted Buttonquail female

Here is a dilemma in need of urgent attention. For 20+ years I have been observing a healthy population of Black-breasted Buttonquail near Imbil, in the Sunshine Coast hinterland. It is arguably the most important site we know of for this endangered species. The area is mixed open forest-vine scrub with considerable growth of the exotic weed lantana. The birds feed in both vine scrub and lantana here. The images in this post were taken at the site.

There is a good deal of work presently underway in this region being undertaken by land care volunteers from various organisations - most of it highly desirable - in revegetating depleted and cleared native vegetation, and in creating the pleasant Mary Valley Rail Trail connecting the towns of Imbil and Brooloo.

Along the Mary Valley Rail Trail

During a recent visit to the site, I noticed that lantana had been removed from an area favoured by the buttonquail. In its place was a profusion of other weeds that had burst forth in the newly exposed soil, and piles of dead lantana. No buttonquail were about.

Black-breasted Buttonquail male

Those who cleared the lantana doubtlessly had good intentions: to restore the native vine scrub – which is in fact critically endangered subtropical lowland rainforest - in all its glory, without exotic weeds. I dislike exotic weeds as much as anyone, but I think we need a raincheck here.

Weed regrowth in area cleared of lantana

Many sites that continue to harbour Black-breasted Buttonquail are heavily infested with lantana. I believe there is a reason for that. While the birds happily feed in both vine scrub and lantana, they shelter in the much denser lantana thickets. I think this helps protect them from predatory foxes and cats. 


At Inskip Point, the species could be reliably seen for many years near the point’s northern end until the birds disappeared quite suddenly. It is likely that one or more feral cats discovered the site and learned there were easy pickings there. Buttonquail are rarely seen at the site these days.

Dead lantana piled at the site

As well, lantana likely provides feeding habitat in marginal areas where other native forest has been largely cleared. This is new territory but worth exploring, and in the current case, something needs to happen now before more lantana at the Imbil site is removed. In my view, there is a solid argument for leaving lantana alone in areas where we know there are well-established Black-breasted Buttonquail populations.

Black-breasted Buttonquail feeding in lantana





Australia Road Trip 2024 - Part 1: Queensland

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Carpentarian Grasswren

We embarked on June 22 this year on a 78-day journey with the caravan through outback Queensland, much of the Northern Territory, bits of South Australia, and southern and north-east New South Wales. Our first evening was the free camp at Bowenville near Dalby - always a favourite spot but the -3 morning temperature was a chilly start. Best birds were loads of Plum-headed Finches. 

Bowenville camp

The next night at Morven was just as cold; it wasn’t until we got to Ifracombe that the weather started warming up. A Red-backed Kingfisher at the back of the pub put on a show.

Red-backed Kingfisher

 We moved on to Winton for a couple of nights, staying at the dusty Raceway Camp. Red-browed Pardalote was about the town cemetery and Plum-headed Finches were again common. Pink-eared Duck was on the sewerage ponds. One reason for this trip was that a succession of good wet seasons accounted for an unusually green landscape with plenty of water about along with carpets of wildflowers, thick grass and vigorous vegetation in all directions. 

Pink-eared Duck & Grey Teal

Plum-headed Finch & Zebra Finch

Red-browed Pardalote

That was the case for the whole of the trip. With that came loads of parrots with large flocks of Galah, Cockatiel and Budgerigar being frequently encountered. 

Budgerigar flock

Galah flock

Our next stop was a couple of nights at the Discovery Caravan Park at Cloncurry. Chinaman’s Creek Dam was the hotspot here with the main target – Pictorella Mannikin – found easily. A pair with 4 young were about during several visits.

Pictorella Mannikin juvenile

Pictorella Mannikin adult

Spinifex Pigeon was common and the rocky hills resounded with the calls of Golden-backed Honeyeater.

Golden-backed Honeyeater

Spinifex Pigeon

Varied Lorikeet was numerous, feeding on the many luxuriously flowering eucalypts. Purple-backed Fairy-wren was approachable and a few Green Pygmy-Goose were on the dam, where a Freshwater Crocodile was seen distantly. A fly-by Grey Falcon was an unexpected sighting - but no image. 

Varied Lorikeet


Green Pygmy-Goose

 
Purple-backed Fairy-wren

Purple-necked Rock-Wallaby was easy to see on the ridge tops. Cloncurry Parrot was common in Cloncurry (and everywhere else in the region). 

Cloncurry Parrot

Purple-necked Rock-Wallaby (above and below)


Moving a little further west we camped in the now deserted town of Mary Kathleeen, once the base for Australia’s biggest uranium mine. The now closed mine was checked out for the regional endemic - Kalkadoon Grasswren. Two females and a male obliged in the early morning, allowing close approaches. I’d missed photographing this species during a trip to the area last year. 

Kalkadoon Grasswren (female)

Kalkadoon Grasswren (female, male below)


Mary Kathleen mine

Next stop was Moondarra Caravan Park outside Mt Isa – good not to have to stay in the town. Plenty of birds around the lake with Grey-fronted Honeyeater the most common species. An unusually red Wallaroo was spotted. A feral population of Indian Peafowl has lived for many years by the lake, but the debate about whether they are tickable is unresolved. 

Lake Moondarra landscape 


Grey-fronted Honeyeater

Indian Peafowl

Wallaroo

 We moved on the World War II rest area north-west of Mt Isa for an overnighter. I’d searched here unsuccessfully last year for Carpentarian Grasswren (others in our group saw it briefly). This time I had more success, though it took 8 hours of searching over 2 days. I saw one bird briefly before a second grasswren put on a superb display, perching and singing for a couple of minutes. Probably the bird of the trip. I’d not seen this species since 1982 near Borroloola in the NT, where it is now believed to be extinct. 

Carpentarian Grasswren


 Other birds about the grasswren site included Spotted Bowerbird, Little Woodswallow, Crested Bellbird and loads of Black-tailed Treecreepers. Spinifexbird was seen briefly.

Black-tailed Treecreeper

Crested Bellbird

Little Woodswallow

Spotted Bowerbird
On to the Northern Territory.

Carpentarian Grasswren site north of Mt Isa 






AUSTRALIAN ROAD TRIP 2024 - Northern Territory Top End

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Chestnut Rail

After crossing the Queensland-Northern Territory border we overnighted at the Barkly Homestead campground heading west, where birds included large numbers of Diamond Dove, Masked Woodswallow and Little Crow. 



Diamond Dove

Masked Woodswallow

The following morning saw us head north on the Tablelands Highway, a narrow road in poor condition that took us two days to negotiate, taking it slowly. We camped half-way, by the Brunette Creek North. The Mitchell grass plains were in fine form and again, wildflowers were everywhere.

Mitchell Grass Plains

Tablelands Highway

Large numbers of waterbirds were about on the shrinking areas of water with big flocks of Pelican a stand-out. Raptors were in abundance, including Black Falcon and Wedge-tailed Eagle. A few Flock Pigeons were drinking at a bore.

Black Falcon

Australian Pelican

Wedge-tailed Eagle



Flock Pigeon

The star of the show was Yellow Chat, a bird I’d long wanted to photograph (having failed multiple times at Port Alma on the coast). Several birds were in vegetation around two pools at the Kennedy Creek crossing, with an estimated total of 12-15 individuals.

Yellow Chat


We next camped at Cape Crawford, a pub called Heartbreak Hotel at the junction of the Tablelands Highway and the Carpentaria Highway. Birds included Red-collared Lorikeet, Great Bowerbird and White-quilled (Blue-faced) Honeyeater.
Then it was westward for an overnight stay at Daly Waters and north to Mataranka, a favourite spot from visits past, for a couple of days.

Great Bowerbird

Red-collared Lorikeet

White-quilled Honeyeater
We pushed further north for a pleasant few days at Manbulloo Homestead west of Katherine by the Katherine River. I searched the Victoria Highway unsuccessfully to the south for Chestnut-backed Buttonquail. Birds about the place included Green-backed Gerygone, Blue-winged Kookaburra, quite a few Australian Bustard and Northern Fantail.

Australian Bustard


Blue-winged Kookaburra

Green-backed Gerygone

Northern Fantail

I hooked up with local birding identity Dan Ashdown, who was most helpful in steering me to various sites, including a colony of Northern Bent-winged Bats in Katherine. 

With Dan Ashdown in Katherine

Northern Bent-winged Bat

At the local sewerage ponds we had a Wood Sandpiper along with Pied Heron and a few Freshwater Crocodiles.

Freshwater Crocodile

Pied Heron

Heading further north I searched a hotspot on Central Arnhem Road, where I failed to find Northern Shrike-tit. I did see Banded Honeyeater.

Banded Honeyeater

Further north still we overnighted at Pine Creek, where the Hooded Parrots were in their usual haunts in the town centre and Yellow Oriole was vocal. I ventured into deserted caves along Chinaman Creek Road, finding a big colony of Ghost Bat but getting lost in the process. With an overwhelming stench of ammonia and tunnels heading off in all directions, I was fortunate to eventually spot a flicker of daylight which led me to the outside world. A lesson learned.

Hooded Parrot (female, male below)


Yellow Oriole

We next had a superb week in Kakadu National Park, kicked off with Silver-backed Butcherbirds putting on a show at the park entrance.

Silver-backed Kingfisher

Our first 3 nights were at Mardagul Camp, a favourite spot during our last visit to Kakadu 10 years ago. One of the first birds was a fine Great-billed Heron at the boat ramp which allowed close approach. Saltwater crocodiles were present. A colony of Northern Cave Bat was present in the same spot as a decade ago, under the road bridge.

Great-billed Heron (above and below) 


Mardugal Camp

Northern Cave Bat

A vocal Rainbow Pitta put on a show in the vine scrub in front of our camp. 

Rainbow Pitta


Other birds in the scrub included Large-tailed Nightjar, Arafura Fantail,
Lemon-bellied Flyrobin and Arafura Shrike-thrush. 

Arafura Fantail

Arafura Shrike-thrush

Lemon-bellied Flyrobin

Rufous Owl performed splendidly in the evening, as it did during our last visit.

Rufous Owl


We undertook a day-long trip to Jim Jim Gorge, closed during our last visit but open this time. It’s a long, jarring road in but this
is one of Australia’s natural landscape showpieces. The road prevented us from bringing the caravan in to stay at Kamamarr Camp, so I opted not to try for White-throated Grasswren images. Patridge Pigeons around Kamamarr had to make do.

Partridge Pigeon

Jim Jim Gorge & entry road (below)


Next was a single night at Muirella Camp, where Barking Owl was vocal. 

Barking Owl

From there I checked out Nourlangie Rock. I failed to snare Banded Fruit-Dove either there or the next day at Kubara Pools – a surprising dip. Sandstone (Helmeted) Friarbird and White-lined Honeyeater were common. Brown (Grey-headed) Whistler was at Kubera.

Kubara



Sandstone Friarbird

Brown Whistler

Nourlangie Rock

We then had 3 nights at Merl Camp in northern Kakadu. Cahill’s Crossing on the East Alligator River nearby offered spectacular sightings of about 20 large Saltwater Crocodiles lined up below the causeway at high tide as barramundi and other fish washed over the road.

Croc line-up at Cahill's crossing

Saltwater Crocodile catches a barramundi


The scenery at Ubirr was stunning. Eastern Short-eared Wallaby here was easy to see, as were numerous Chestnut-quilled Rock-Pigeon, another species on my photo tick target list.

Chestnut-quilled Rock-Pigeon


Eastern Short-eared Wallaby 

Ubirr (above and below)


A
delightful Sandstone Pseudantechinus was located at the turnoff to Ubirr that evening. Nearby on the 
Bardedjillidji Walk at night, a pair of Rock Ringtails was a fine sight - another I’d not enjoyed for many years.

Sandstone Pseudantechinus

Rock Ringtail

 Bardedjillidji

Plenty more rock-pigeons were here during the day along with Sandstone Shrike-thrush and Masked and Long-tailed Finches. Common Sheathtail Bat and Ghost Bat were in a cave on the walk.

C ommon Sheathtail Bat

Ghost Bat


Long-tailed & Masked Finches

Sandstone Shrike-thrush

Leaving Kakadu we stopped by the South Alligator River. A huge Saltwater Crocodile (5m+) was present on the opposite bank. Less intimidating were Yellow White-eye and Broad-billed Flycatcher.

Broad-billed Flycatcher

Saltwater Crocodile (very big)

Yellow White-eye

We overnighted at the Bark Hut Camp on the Mary River, where birds included Crimson Finch and Radjah Shelduck. Agile Wallaby was abundant here, as elsehwere, and very tame.

Agile Wallaby

Crimson Finch

Radjah Shelduck

We headed north to Darwin for a 4-night stay at the Lee Point Caravan Park, with relatively little birding. The sunset markets at Mindl Beach were excellent. 

Mindl Beach

Rufous-banded Honeyeater was common in the park. I had arranged with local Christopher Spooner to take me up Buffalo Creek in his boat, I site where I had seen Chestnut Rail several times when I lived in Darwin in the early-1980s. The birds are easier to see these days and we had 4 close to the boat at different spots, with 2 more heard. This was the 700th bird on my Australian list that I had photographed. 

Chestnut Rail

Other birds included Red-headed Honeyeater and Orange-footed Scrubfowl.

Orange-footed Scrubfowl

Red-headed Honeyeater

Leaving Darwin and heading south we camped at the King River Rest Area near the above-mentioned shrike-tit hotspot on Central Arnhem Road. Again no luck, though I saw a pair of Chestnut-backed Buttonquail, which failed to co-operate with the camera.



AUSTRALIA ROAD TRIP 2024 – Part 3: Southern Northern Territory & South Australia

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Western Grasswren

Heading further south through the Northern Territory, we left behind the savannah woodlands of the Top End for more arid environs, camping at the Tennant Creek Caravan Park overnight. In the afternoon I checked out the nearby Mary Ann Drive and Dam - a hotspot for Dusky Grasswren. I had heard they can be difficult here but within an hour I heard several birds and saw 3, including one grasswren that was quite co-operative.

Dusky Grasswren

Little Crow was common but not much was seen further south other than some Black Honeyeaters before we hit Alice Springs for a 2-night stay in the Alice Springs Tourist Park.

Little Crow
This town was my home for 8 months in the late-1970s. During that time I discovered Grey Honeyeater at Kunoth Bore, north of Alice Springs. That has since been a key go-to site for this rare and strange species.

MacDonald Range near Alice Springs

Dusky Grasswren habitat near Tennant Creek

I was keen to connect with the bird again. They are now known from sites much closer to town. I first visited the Alice Springs Tourist Park and eventually spotted a single Grey Honeyeater among the thornbills. The next day saw me at the nearby John Flynn Memorial Park. Here I found a pair of the honeyeaters that were shy but reasonably co-operative. Their behaviour indicated they were almost certainly nesting.

Grey Honeyeater


We headed south of Alice Springs to camp at Stuart’s Well Roadhouse. I visited the nearby Cannonball Run Monument and found another photo target – Banded Whiteface. A pair of the birds kept their distance but showed well enough.

Banded Whiteface

The next overnight camp was at Desert Oaks. Red-capped Robin and Splendid Fairywren were among the few birds seen.

Desert Oaks

Red-capped Robin

Splendid Fairywren

The following night was at Kulgara behind the pub, then it was on to Tody’s Bush Camp, north of Marla. Another Banded Whiteface was spotted. Chiming Wedgebill was another photo target and they obliged here. The species proved to be common throughout southern NT and northern SA, its call resounding seemingly at every stop.

Chiming Wedgebill

We had a couple of nights at Coober Pedy, a shabby but interesting spot with its labyrinth of underground homes and attractions of various kinds. Around the William Hutchinson Monument south of town I had Pied Honeyeater and White-fronted Honeyeater, but here and elsewhere I failed to find another target: Thick-billed Grasswren. We then camped at the Bon Bon Rest Area. I’d seen and photographed Chestnut-breastedWhiteface before but hoped to reconnect it with it here or elsewhere, but none were seen. We had another overnighter at Woomera. A few Red Kangaroos were about but were nowhere near as common as expected.

Red Kangaroo

 

Coober Pedy's underground

Plains south of Coober Pedy

Habitat near Marla

Then it was on to the town or Iron Knob. I hoped to find another target grasswren here – Western – but that had to wait. I did have fine views of Slender-billed Thornbill, Redthroat and Rufous Fieldwren.

Redthroat

Rufous Fieldwren

Slender-billed Thornbill

We moved on to Streaky Bay - a favoured destination from our trip around Australia in 2014 - for a few days. Then it was off to the bottom of Eyre Peninsula for 2 nights at Taylor’s Landing Camp in Lincoln National Park. I’d hoped to photograph White-bellied Whipbird here. Several birds around the camp were vocal and I saw them on 4 occasions – including one located with my thermal imager – but no photograph of this notoriously shy species.

Taylor's Landing

Streaky Bay

More obliging were the many Spotted Scrubwrens around the camp, Southern Scrub-Robin and Western Yellow Robin.

Southern Scrub-Robin

Spotted Scrubwren

Western Yellow Robin

We headed north to Whyalla for a couple of nights and I checked out the extensive bluebush flats on the western fringe of the city, where Western Grasswren had been reported. I soon had a pair of the birds that appeared to be seriously curious about this human interloper, approaching closely. This was my 13th and last photo tick for the trip, while I missed 4 targets. I photographed 4 of 5 grasswren targets.

Western Grasswren


We had a night in the interesting town of Burra and then camped overnight on the Murray River near Renmark, our final evening in South Australia.

Wildflowers were abundant throughout the arid centre


AUSTRALIA ROAD TRIP 2024 -Part 4: New South Wales

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Spotted-tailed Quoll

Crossing the South Australia border into Victoria and then NSW, we had 3 nights at the Euston Club RV Camp on the banks of the Murray River, catching up with our friend Kathy Haydon for the next week. Regent Parrot, a beautiful and threatened species, is common here and we had numerous encounters, with birds often about the camping area.


Regent Parrot

Musk Lorikeet was numerous across the river in Robinvale, Victoria. Yellow Rosella was common everywhere along the rivers.

Yellow Rosella


Musk Lorikeet

Next stop was Mamanga Camp in Yanga National Park outside Balranald. This time on the banks of the Murrumbidgee River. Western Gerygone, Eastern Bluebonnet, Diamond Firetail and Stubble Quail were among the birds here.

Eastern Bluebonnet

Western Gerygone

Pallid Cuckoo and White-winged Fairywren were in the mix.

Murray River at Euston

Pallid Cuckoo

White-winged Fairywren

We moved on to Darlington Point, again camped by the river, where Long-billed Corella was common. A couple of Pink Cockatoos were spotted on the way from Balranald roadside. 

Long-billed Corella

Superb Parrot was seen and heard around our camp with 3 birds sitting nicely in Murrumbidgee Valley Regional Park.

Superb Parrot

We overnighted in Cowra before heading north for a 3-night stay in the beautiful but poorly named Dunns Swamp Camp Ground in Wollemi National Park.

Dunns Swamp


Stunning scenery aside, the highlight was being serenaded at night by a pair of Powerful Owls.

Powerful Owl


This is a good spot for Rockwarbler and I saw them closely a few times.

Rockwarbler


Other birds included Striated Thornbill and Eastern Shrike-tit. Chestnut-rumped Heathwren showed briefly but refused to be photographed. Gang Gang Cockatoo was heard a couple of times and seen briefly. A pair of Musk Duck frequented the dam.

Eastern Shrike-tit

Musk Duck

Striated Thornbill

Mammals were scarce – Common Brushtail about the camp and Red-necked Wallaby.

Common Brushtail

Red-necked Wallaby

Our final camp was further north – Mulligans Camp in Gibralter Range National Park. Red-browedTreecreeper showed nicely during our first hike, to The Needles.

Red-browed Treecreeper 

Gibralter Range


Scarlet Robin and Rose Robin - the latter singing so evidently breeding and not on migration - were about the campground.

Rose Robin

Scarlet Robin

In a heath patch on the 9km Tree Fern Loop track, a pair of Southern Emu-wren provided entertainment.

Southern Emu-wren (female, male below)

The stars of the place though were the mammals. Spotted-tailed Quoll was known to haunt the campground at night, visiting camp sites in search of food. Other vistitors were seeing them during our stay so on the final night, having failed to locate one, I put out lures. A bowl of lemon-flavoured tuna and a bowl of spicy Indian-flavoured tuna. The latter was ignored but the former did the trick. A fine male Spotted-tailed Quoll turned up. Later in the evening a second quoll showed, evidently a different animal, smaller and more lightly coloured so probably a female.

Spotted-tailed Quoll

Quoll scat

The other big highlight was Parma Wallaby. I saw 15-20 small macropods over three nights and believe all were this species and none were pademelons. There has been some debate about the identity of the animals here. The two pademelon species occur in rainforest; Red-necked happily frequents dry vine scrub but it is still rainforest. This national park is in the granite highlands of northern NSW and southern Queensland - a region not favoured by pademelons. The habitat at Mulligans is open forest with a shrubby understorey; the nearest rainforest is 1.5km away. It is not pademelon habitat.

The species is not difficult to identify. It lacks the clearly defined rufous patches that are key features of Red-necked and Red-legged Pademelons. I photographed 3 different Parma Wallabies and all were uniformly coloured although they varied somewhat from rufous-grey to grey with just a hint of rufous. They showed facial patterns, unlike pademelons – especially a white line on the face. The small white hip stripe is difficult to see but is evident in one image. The clear white – not greyish – throat and breast was to me the most obvious feature pointing to Parma Wallaby. Some of the animals I saw had white tips to the tail. A darkish upper dorsal strip was evident.

Parma Wallaby



Other mammals seen about the camp included Southern Long-nosed Bandicoot, Greater Glider and Eastern Ringtail. 

Eastern Ringtail

Southern Long-nosed Bandicoot

We moved on to Broadwater on the NSW North Coast for the last night of our road trip.

Farewell dinner with Kathy and Glenn at Cowra


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