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From Bauple to Bribie – The Game & The Big Year

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Barking Owl - Sheepstation Creek

BirdLife Australia Sunshine Coast, our local birding group, has for some time been running a game on its Facebook page organised by its leader, Ken Cross. One objective is to encourage people to photograph as many species as possible in a calendar year in the Sunshine Coast region. The area extends north to Inskip Point and Bauple; south to Bribie Island; and west to Kilcoy, the Conondale Range, the Amamoor area and Muna Creek-Miva. An outlier to the south, Sheepstation Creek Conservation Reserve near Burpengary, is also included.




I thought it would be fun to join in for the 2018 game, and it's proved quite a challenge. A bit like a big jigsaw puzzle, with all the bits slowly falling into place. A few weeks ago, what I dubbed The Game morphed into a Big Year for me, so I'm keen to see how many species in the region I can photograph this year. As of today (16/4/2018) I'm up to 279, and while it might be nice to hit 300, another 21 is a tall order, especially since I'm away for much of the second half of the year. I've seen but not managed to photograph another 4 species (King Quail, Stubble Quail, Eastern Ground Parrot, White-throated Nightjar). I've seen a total of 344 species in the Sunshine Coast region since time immemorial.

Among recent forays was a visit to Imbil State Forest at Stirling Crossing, not far west of Imbil. Little Lorikeet was added to the list here and it was nice to see Dusky Woodswallow close up.

Dusky Woodswallow

Little Lorikeet
I moved on to another part of the state forest near Brooloo, where I had a fantastic close encounter with a female Black-breasted Buttonquail. Also of interest here were more Little Lorikeets and a Black-chinned Honeyeater. The honeyeateris a rare winter visitor to the region and I'd seen it just the week before alongAmamoor Creek Road.

Black-breasted Buttonquail 

Black-breasted Buttonquail
On another trip I decided to head to the northern sector of the area, where I found a group of White-winged Choughs outside Bauple.

White-winged Chough
I then had a look at the Muna Creek-Miva area a bit further west, concentrating on the excellent open woodlands along Munna Miva Road. I found Speckled Warbler along here. Nearby along Sexton Road I found two groups of Grey-crowned Babblers.

Grey-crowned Babbler

Speckled Warbler
In more open country I saw a Rufous Songlark, unexpected at this time of year.


Rufous Songlark


We camped for two nights at Charlie Moreland Park, an old favourite. Yellow Thornbill had been seen along the road in by Ian Stargazer and while I didn't expect them to be still around, a party of 6 were in the same area.

Yellow Thornbill
In the forest above the park along Sunday Creek Road I tracked down a Sooty Owl. A Russet-tailed Thrush was finally connected with at nearby Booloumba Creek camping ground. This was the first bird I photographed for The Game back in January, but I discarded those lousy images and it was another 6 months before I scored again.

Russet-tailed Thrush

Sooty Owl
I visited Sheepstation Creek to chase up a Barking Owl which Matt Wright kindly pointed me towards. This was my first sighting of the species in the region. I also found a Square-tailed Kite in the reserve.

Barking Owl

Square-tailed Kite
A Wedge-tailed Eagle (the third for The Game) was seen at Toorbul.

Wedge-tailed Eagle
I thought another trip north was in order. I saw a flock of 20 Red-tailed Black Cockatoos at Scotchy Pocket – not new for The Game because I had them at Amamoor, but nice.

Red-tailed Black Cockatoo
I overnighted in the pub at Tiaro, just north of the area for The Game, and was delighted to find a Barking Owl along the Mary River - my second encounter with the species in a few days.

Barking Owl - Tiaro
I again visited the Munna Miva Road, this time connecting with a group of Weebills; this species is inexplicably scarce in the region. I also found Black-chinned Honeyeater again -the third time for The Game.

Weebill


Black-chinned Honeyeater
Back on the home front at Ninderry, a Square-tailed Kite has been frequenting the garden area. 
A Gould's Long-eared Bat was hanging on a rafter under the back porch.

Square-tailed Kite

Gould's Long-eared Bat
Nearby at North Arm, an Intermediate Egret struggled to kill and swallow a rat of some kind.

Intermediate Egret with rat

Intermediate Egret with rat



Grey Falcon & Diamantina National Park

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Grey Falcon

In April last year I visited Lark Quarry and other sites in the channel country of western Queensland with Scott Baker and Bernie O'Keefe in search of Night Parrots and other goodies. The three of us decided it was time for another foray so we returned to the region, this time checking out the southern end of the Brighton Downs cattle property and the northern sector of Diamantina National Park along the main road (2-4 July). 

Diamantina National Park

Diamantina National Park
We were careful not to stray into the prohibited zone of the national park or the neighbouring Pullen Pullen Reserve – the area where Night Parrots are known from in Queensland - so perhaps not surprisingly, we failed to encounter the species in the limited habitat that can be reached.

Grey Falcon

Grey Falcon
We did, however, find some nice stuff, most notably no fewer than three pairs of Grey Falcons within 60km of each other. Of particular interest was a pair attending a nest in a eucalypt in the national park – a pleasant change from the usual telecommunication towers chosen by this rare species for nesting.

Grey Falcons

Grey Falcon

Grey Falcon
One of the birds was feeding on a Diamond Dove when we spotted the pair; the falcon with the prey shared it briefly with its mate before depositing it in the nest. The next morning we returned to the site and a falcon with a freshly killed small bird, probably a Zebra Finch, was seen on the road before taking flight to the nest. We were careful to keep our distance as these falcons reportedly are quick to vacate their nests if disturbed.

Further on in our journey we ran into a Darwin birder, Laurie Ross, on the road and told him about the nest. We were very disappointed to see that Laurie wasted no time in linking photographs he took of the birds to his commercial birding site and signalled he would be taking commercial tours there. The Queensland National Parks and Wildlife Service will hopefully take a dim view of any such activity. Laurie claimed on Facebook that people who found the birds were "happy for me to take clients there"; that statement is untrue. Laurie requested publicly that nobody ask for the site details for this Grey Falcon pair, then he promptly offered to reveal them to another birder in return for site details for a Palm Cockatoo nest.

Last year I suggested to a Sunshine Coast birder that he remove reference to a nest from an ebird post from the region; he responded with a vitriolic personal attack, and the post remained unamended. I'll leave it to others to judge the conduct of some members of the birding community on such matters.

Painted Finch - juveniles

Painted Finch - adult male
Grey Falcons aside, the most interesting observation during this part of the trip was the large numbers of Painted Finches seen among the mesas and break-away country of rocky ridges and spinifex. This can be an uncommon species but it was easily the most numerous that we saw. As usual, this part of the world is exceptionally scenic – easily the jewel in the crown of the vast Diamantina National Park - and it's a matter of regret that access to it is banned.

Spotted Nightjar
A special treat one evening was a Spotted Nightjar tracked down during a nocturnal foray.

Black Honeyeater
Black Honeyeaters were quite common about the area, with many flowering Eremophilashrubs attracting them.  Spinifex Pigeon, Budgerigar and Red-capped Robin were among other species about. Good rain had fallen in the area earlier this year.

Red-capped Robin

Spinifex Pigeon

Budgerigar
A small number of Red Kangaroos were the only mammals seen. The historic Mayne Hotel ruins are worth a look. Ebird list.

Mayne Hotel ruins

Red Kangaroos
The boys in action


Letter-winged Kite, Birdsville Track & Flinders Ranges

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Letter-winged Kite roost at sunrise

Following our visit to Diamantina National Park, we (myself, Bernie O'Keefe and Scott Baker) headed west towards Boulia, turning south at Springvale Station towards Coorabulka Station. Having had some excellent encounters with Grey Falcon, we were looking forward to another raptor treat. A gathering of Letter-winged Kites had been reported recently (I believe Jannette Manins first found them) at Whitewood Creek, between Coorabulka and the Kennedy Developmental Road.

Letter-winged Kites

Letter-winged Kites

Letter-winged Kite
We had no trouble finding the kites in the early afternoon upon arrival (4/7). A total of 16-17 birds, including a couple of immatures, circled high in the air, evidently riding wind currents; the behaviour seemed unusual for this species, especially at that time of day. They soon landed in stunted coolibah trees lining the gully, which was surrounded by sparse Mitchell grass and gibber plains. We found widely scattered nests along about 1.5km of the gully that clearly had been used in recent times.

Letter-winged Kite nest

Letter-winged Kite site
Plenty of Little Crows were about here.

Little Crow
It's good news indeed that Letter-winged Kites are again being seen in this region. They were regular in that part of the world but had been largely absent over the past couple of decades. The species generally is in steep decline, most likely due to the predation of nesting adults and chicks by feral cats.  We camped at the site and that evening spotlighted 40km to the north and south along the road. We were delighted to find a Kowari, notwithstanding the sole poor image I managed.

Kowari
We found a Gibberbird on the road at night. The following morning, after farewelling the kites at their roost, we continued south, finding another Gibberbird before connecting with the Diamantina Developmental Road.

Gibberbird
Gibberbird at night
We stopped at a few spots along the way, connecting with Cinnamon Quail-thrush, Purple-backed Fairywren,  Australian Pratincole and a nice roadside Wedge-tailed Eagle (among others) before arriving in Birdsville.

Australian Pratincole
Wedge-tailed Eagle

Cinnamon Quail-Thrush

Purple-backed Fairywren
In the late afternoon we checked out a sand dune where Eyrean Grasswrens had recently been seen 17.5km east of Birdsville. We found the birds and managed a couple of mediocre images as they kept to the interior of canegrass tussocks.

Eyrean Grasswren

Grasswren dune near Birdsville
After overnighting at the Birdsville Hotel, we continued south 91km along the Birdsville Track to lignum and saltbush flats that have emerged as a hotspot for Grey Grasswren (Bernie O'Keefe, one of our group, discovered this spot a few years ago.) Unfortunately the weather conditions had changed dramatically overnight from warm and still to cold and windy. That took care of the flies that had been plaguing us, but grasswrens are difficult in these conditions and two of us managed just brief views of a single bird. A pair of Orange Chats showed nicely here.

Orange Chat male

Orange Chat female
We tried unsuccessfully to drive into Pandiburra Bore and almost got bogged in the process as heavy rain had fallen in the area recently. Various old homestead ruins along the Birdsville Track are worth a look. We found a Bynoe's Gecko near one of the old homesteads. Bynoe's  Gecko and Eastern Tree Dtella were found earlier in Diamantina National Park.

Getting out a sticky situation - Pandiburra Bore track

Homestead ruins
Bynoe's Gecko
Eastern Tree Dtella
We spent the next evening at the Mungarannie Hotel. Continuing south along the Birdsville Track the next day we picked up other goodies including Stubble Quail,  White-backed Swallow and a flock of Blue-winged Parrots.

Stubble Quail
Blue-winged Parrots

Blue-winged Parrot
White-backed Swallow
A sole Ostrich along the track is evidently well-known - not tickable but wild. We saw more Eyrean Grasswrens on a dune 140km south of Mungarannie. After overnighting at the Lyndhurst Hotel we failed to connect with Thick-billed Grasswrens at a nearby site the next morning.

Ostrich
We moved on to the Flinders Ranges, where our run of bad luck with grasswrens continued. We couldn't find Short-tailed Grasswren at Stokes Hill; I suspect that wind combined with the absence of calling mid-winter was responsible for the lack of grasswrens. We also had limited to time to look for the birds, all of which had been seen previously by the three of us. As usual, the Flinders Ranges did not disappoint aesthetically.

Flinders Ranges from Stokes Hill
We had more joy at Brachina Gorge where Yellow-footed Rock-Wallaby showed nicely, along with Grey-fronted Honeyeater, while Euro was abundant throughout the area.

Yellow-footed Rock-Wallaby

Grey-fronted Honeyeater

Euro


Red-lored Whistler, Murray-Sunset & Werribee

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Red-lored Whistler

Following the visit with Bernie O'Keefe and Scott Baker to Diamantina National Park and our travels down the Birdsville Track and through the Flinders Ranges, we moved on to the huge expanse of mallee in the Murray-Sunset National Park on the Victoria-South Australia border. We set up camp in a spot the guys knew of at the junction of Pheeneys and Old Bore tracks in remote, old growth mallee deep in the national park. I've always loved the mallee and it was a joy to be back in it.

Camping in Murray-Sunset National Park
Red-lored Whistler is one of the more difficult Australian birds to see and photograph so was high on our wishlist. I found a male whistler three kilometres north of the camp in almost exactly the same spot where Scott saw one many years previously. This was just the second time I've seen this species. At the same time, Scott found another bird south of the track junction, while a third whistler was heard early the evening before in the vicinity of the camp. So we had three Red-lored Whistlers within 4kms of each other over.

Red-lored Whistler

Red-lored Whistler
Striated Grasswren was another much-wanted image and having a pair of these at close quarters was satisfying.

Striated Grasswren
Striated Grasswren
The yellow-rumped form of Spotted Pardalote, a potential split for sure, was plentiful.

Spotted (Yellow-rumped) Pardalote
Other mallee birds showed nicely in this area, notably Southern Scrub-Robin, Shy Heathwren and Chestnut Quail-thrush. Yellow-plumed Honeyeater was fairly common and we looked without success for Black-eared Miners, finding just a single Yellow-throated Miner.

Shy Heathwren

Southern Scrub-Robin

Yellow-plumed Honeyeater

Chestnut Quail-thrush
We travelled more than 100km along park roads before leaving Murray-Sunset the next day and heading for our next overnight destination – the mallee town of Ouyen in Victoria. Mulga Parrot was plentiful along the way.

Mulga Parrot
We visited Hattah-Kulkyne National Park the next morning but had no luck looking for Mallee Emu-wren, although we had seen the species previously. We did find the mound of a Malleefowl, not far from where I saw a malleefowl in 2014.

Malleefowl mound
We continued eastward to Lake Tyrrell, where Rufous Fieldwren took some searching in the cold and windy conditions, before finally arriving at Bernie's Melbourne home for some much-needed warmth and rest.

Lake Tyrrell

Rufous Fieldwren
The next day Bernie and I went to St Kilda pier, famed for its Little Penguin rookery in the retaining wall rocks. We found a single penguin sitting on an egg in a crevice between the rocks but the bird was difficult to photograph.

Little Penguin

St Kilda Pier
An elderly German-born man at the pier put on quite a show for the tourists as he fed several unusually tame Water-Rats, or rakalis as they are referred to now. The man fed the rats fish fingers, which appeared to be much relished, and had a cup of fresh water out for them.

Water-Rat
The following day Scott took me to the Werribee sewage treatment works. It had been many years since I'd been to this delightful birding destination. We'd hoped to encounter overwintering Orange-bellied Parrots and may have seen the species as three Neophema parrots crossed the road in front of the vehicle before disappearing into the distance. Other goodies as we drove around the wetlands included good numbers of Red-necked Avocet and Swamp Harrier.

Red-necked Avocets

Swamp Harrier
Spotless Crake and Australian Spotted Crake were in the reed-beds.

Australian Spotted Crake

Spotless Crake
We finished the trip with a visit to the excellent Blue Bamboo Vietnamese restaurant near Bernie's home.



Sunshine Coast Pelagic August 2018

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Providence Petrel
With a forecast wind direction of W-NW - about as bad as it gets - following several days of westerlies, we had some challenges ahead of us as we left Mooloolaba Marina at 7am on Sunday August 5, 2018. A Wedge-tailed Shearwater and a couple of Hutton's Shearwaters were seen on the way out. So were good numbers of Humpback Whales, including a group of about 12 that were hanging around a fishing boat. A pair of Brown Boobies were perched on a trawler nearby.

Brown Booby pair

Humpback Whale
We reached the shelf in 400 metres 32 nautical miles offshore at 9.40am (26.41,61 S; 153.13, 431E) and began laying a berley trail. During the 3.5 hours that we drifted off the shelf we had Providence Petrels about and a few Hutton's Shearwaters, but it was otherwise pretty much a bird-free zone. The wind was blowing a comfortable 10-12 knots on a swell of 1.5 metres making for pleasant conditions, but the north-westerly failed to produce the goods as might be expected.

Hutton's Shearwaters
The occasional Australasian Gannet and a few more Hutton's Shearwaters were seen on the return journey and we arrived back at the marina at 3.50pm.

Australasian Gannet
PARTICIPANTS
Greg Roberts (organiser), Toby Imhoff (skipper), Zoe Williams (deckhand),
Warren Bennett, Robyn Combes, Jo Culinan, Phil Cross, Alex Ferguson, Richard Fuller, Steve Grainger, Nicholas Haass, Judith Hoyle, Alan Kind, Wayne Kroll, James Martin, Gillie Matthew, Deb Metters, Stewart Meltlon, Rachel Oh, Gavin O'Meara, Xiatong Ren, Carolyn Scott, Raja Stephenson, Shen Zang.

SPECIES  Total (Maximum at one time)

Wedge-tailed Shearwater 2 (1)
Hutton's Shearwater 15 (4)
Providence Petrel 20 (3)
Brown Booby 2 (2)
Austrasian Gannet 5 (2)
Crested Tern 80 (20)
Pied Cormorant 2 (2)

Humpback Whale 30 (12)
Offshore Bottle-nosed Dolphin 20 (6)





Australasian Bittern, Regent Honeyeater, Lesser Crested Tern & Big Year Update

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Australasian Bittern
Plenty of avian activity hereabouts in recent weeks. An Australasian Bittern was reported by a Sunshine Coast Birds Australia outing to Garnett's Lagoon at Hervey Bay. This is a favourite spot which I've regularly visited. When I finally had the opportunity to visit the lagoon with John Knight on August 2, the bittern had been there for about 3 weeks; some observers had dipped, others were successful. Australasian Bittern is very rare in South-East Queensland. It took a bit but we eventually found the bittern lurking in the reeds - my second Queensland sighting of the species and my first images of it.

Australasian Bittern

Australasian Bittern
A white phase Eastern Reef-Egret at Hervey Bay was nice.

Eastern Reef-Egret

Excitement was in the air when a Regent Honeyeater turned up at Tin Can Bay recently for what looks to be the third record of this endangered species north of Brisbane. It was not seen subsequently but a Regent Honeyeater, likely the same bird, was spotted at nearby Carlo Point near Rainbow Beach on August 5. The bird has been seen each day since in exactly the same spot – behind caravan park site E4. Carlo Point is another favourite spot; we have camped here several times. The honeyeater was seriously harassed by Noisy Friarbirds and Little Friarbirds but kept returning to the same group of trees. 

Regent Honeyeater

Regent Honeyeater
 From Carlo Point I ventured out to Inskip Point, where a large group (450+) of Crested Terns was roosting on the shore. I'd dropped in here a few days ago on the way to Hervey Bay but the same flock was on an island offshore – too distant to make much of. This time I managed to find a Lesser Crested Tern in the scrum.

Lesser Crested Tern

Lesser Crested Tern
The tern was number 286 and the honeyeater 285 in my Sunshine Coast region 2018 Big Year. Still 14 to go to hit the target of 300, but being away for most of the rest of the year, that won't be easy. Seven other species have been seen but not photographed. Recent additions included a Green Pygmy-Goose that Jane Cooksley found at Lake MacDonald - another species that is very rare in South-East Queensland. 

Green Pygmy-Goose
Steve and Carol Popple discovered a Red-backed Kingfisher at Upper Glastonbury several weeks ago, which by all accounts is still there. 

Red-backed Kingfisher
We camped at the Brooyar State Forest camping ground nearby and heard and saw several White-throated Nightjars. I found a road-killed nightjar near Miva.

Camping at Brooyar State Forest


White-throated Nightjar
Spotless Crake at Parklakes Wetland and Nutmeg Mannikin at Bli Bli were further additions to the list.

Nutmeg Mannikin

Spotless Crake
I visited the Kilcoy area, finding good numbers of Cotton Pygmy Goose at Villaneuve and a nice Peregrine Falcon.

Cotton Pygmy-Goose
Peregrine Falcon
 Also of interest at Villaneuve was a large flock (400+) of Yellow-faced Honeyeaters on migration. These birds were heading south far earlier in the year than is usually the case - perhaps another consequence of climate change.

Yellow-faced Honeyeater migration

A Beach Stone-Curlew put on a show feeding on soldier crabs in the Noosa River estuary.

Beach Stone-Curlew

Beach Stone-Curlew
I tried unsuccessfully to photograph Swift Parrots at Sheepstation Reserve but did see a small flock in the distance. A Powerful Owl was there however, along with the Barking Owl nearby that I saw recently.

Powerful Owl









Night Parrot - New book stirs fresh controversy

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The following are transcripts of my news story and feature in the 11-12 August, 2018 edition of The Weekend Australian about Penny Olsen's new book Night Parrot.

News - Night parrot on brink of extinction as its watchers enter bitter feud


Five years after its rediscovery shook the natural history world, the confirmed population of the critically endangered night parrot is fewer than 20, indicating the species teeters on the brink of extinction.

A grim outlook for what is described as the world's most mysterious bird is emerging as bitter divisions among experts are exposed in a new book, Night Parrot, by Australian National University academic Penny Olsen, to be published soon by the CSIRO.

Dr Olsen launches a stinging attack on North Queensland naturalist John Young, whose publication of the first photographs of a night parrot in 2013 in south-west Queensland is described as the avian find of the century.

Dr Olsen suggests in the book that the bird had an injured wing and was set up for a staged photographic session.

Dr Olsen casts doubt on claims by Mr Young and his employer, the Australian Wildlife Conservancy, that night parrots were found subsequently at other sites.

Supporters of Mr Young hit back, accusing critics of waging a personal vendetta against him.

Mr Young discovered the parrot in what is now known as the Pullen Pullen Reserve, owned by Bush Heritage Australia.

BHA and AWC are Australia's two biggest private conservation groups, owning millions of hectares of wildlife reserves. While BHA runs a night parrot research program in Pullen Pullen, the AWC and Mr Young are undertaking research in the neighbouring Diamantina National Park.

The two groups do not work co-operatively or share information to develop plans to protect the species.

Long-serving AWC chief executive and night parrot advocate Atticus Fleming quit the organisation abruptly last week, giving no reasons.

Mr Fleming's successor as AWC chief executive, Tim Allard, said he hoped to work co-operatively with BHA on night parrot research in future.

Mr Allard said there was no doubt about the validity of night parrot records collected by Mr Young at new sites.

The Pullen Pullen researchers have found fewer than 10 night parrots. A small but unknown number are recorded from Diamantina National Park. Four birds were discovered in the Murchison region of Western Australia last year; two disappeared after one was netted and fitted with a radio transmitter.

Dr Olsen says in her book that ecologist Steve Murphy, who once worked with Mr Young but fell out with him, advised the naturalist to remove a segment of a video of the bird to be screened publicly in 2013 because it was “wonkily staggering through the spinifex with one wing hanging”.

Dr Murphy claimed some of Mr Young's photographs were labelled at a time suggesting the parrot was caught many hours earlier.

Naturalist John Stewart, who was with Mr Young when the images and video footage were taken, described the claims as “nonsense”.

“That bird came in of its own accord, it wasn't caught,” Mr Stewart said. “It didn't look as if it was wonkily staggering. I can't understand why some people are out to get John.”

While subsequent research shows the night parrot is quick to take flight, Mr Stewart said the bird was not seen flying before or after it was photographed, possibly indicating it was injured prior to the encounter.

Asked if she had put the allegations to Mr Young, Dr Olsen said she invited him to contribute an account of his encounter for the book but nothing was offered.


Feature - Feathers ruffled as pursuers clash over avian holy grail

Australia's two biggest nature conservation organisations are pitted against each other in a turf war that is likely to determine the future of what the prestigious Smithsonian Institute describes as the world's most mysterious bird.In a new book, Australian National University scientist Penny Olsen lays bare the bitter rivalry between bird experts that is marring efforts to bring the night parrot back from the brink of extinction.

Olsen takes aim at North Queensland naturalist John Young, who stunned the natural history world by producing the first photographs of the critically endangered parrot in 2013. Olsen suggests the parrot was injured and set up for a staged photo session, prompting denials and an angry response from Young's supporters.

As Olsen explains in Night Parrot, Captain Charles Sturt failed to find a mythical inland sea during his celebrated expeditions through Australia's arid interior, but he did discover in 1845 what he described as a “beautiful ground parrot” that “rose and fell like a quail” when disturbed from its daytime roost.

The night parrot has for more than a century been the centre of often fevered attention among nature lovers internationally. Since populations of the species crashed in the late-1800s, scores of expeditions to far-flung parts of the continent have failed to rediscover it. The capture by Young of the first photographs and video footage of a night parrot is described as the avian find of the century. The holy grail of the birding world had come home to roost. Other than two mummified corpses found in 1990 and 2006, no solid evidence of the parrot's existence had surfaced since the last confirmed specimen was collected in 1884.

Before photographing his parrot, Young recorded its call in breakaway country of breath-taking beauty in the Mayne Range of Queensland's remote Channel Country. When announcing the find, Young told an excited audience at the Queensland Museum in Brisbane that the bird approached him and a colleague, John Stewart, in response to playing its call. Said Young at the time: “To sit there and watch this holy grail come out, like some sort of mythical ghost… it puffed itself up in some sort of alien shape, almost doubling its size, shaped like an echidna, raking its head on the ground… it was electrifying.”

Olsen questions Young's claim about how the bird was photographed, suggesting it was captured hours earlier and was injured, writing in her book: “It was highly unlikely that a wild, uncontained bird would stay around long enough to be filmed so precisely and from such an angle in torchlight.” Wildlife ecologist Steve Murphy was working with Young at the time but has fallen out with the naturalist; the pair are bitter foes today. Murphy told Olsen he advised Young to edit the video footage before airing it, suggesting he “remove a segment that showed the bird wonkily staggering through the spinifex with one wing hanging”.

John Young
Murphy claimed some of Young's photographs were digitally labelled as being taken at 5pm - long before the nocturnal bird would be moving about naturally. The implication was that it was caught the previous night, probably in a net, and kept until arrangements were in place for a staged photographic session. If confirmed, these allegations would seriously damage Young's reputation as arguably Australia's finest field naturalist. Asked whether she put the claims to Young, Olsen says she invited him to write an account for the book but nothing was provided.

Young declines to respond to Olsen, with whom he has clashed previously. His field assistant, John Stewart, speaks publicly for the first time to dispute the claims. Stewart told Inquirer the parrot was not caught; it approached him and Young in response to playing back its call. “It came at us quite aggressively,” Stewart says. “It was stamping on the ground and carrying on, putting on quite a show… There are some people who just seem to be out to get John.” Night parrots are skittish and quick to take flight, but Stewart says the bird did not fly, either before or after it was photographed, suggesting its wing may have been injured prior to the encounter.

In response to Murphy's claim that Young's images were taken at 5pm, Stewart says the bird was photographed about 7pm. “I don't know where he got that time from. It was well after sunset before we saw it.” Responding to Murphy's claim that the video was edited to remove a segment showing what appeared to be an injured bird, a source close to Young says: “Bits were taken out of the video for use later. It's as simple as that. “

Young generated controversy in 2006 when he claimed to have discovered a new species of fig-parrot in the rainforests of north-east NSW. The claim was challenged by The Australian and photographic experts suggested Young's image of the fig-parrot had been digitally altered. Referring to what she describes as the “fabricated” fig-parrot photograph, Olsen writes of Young's night parrot image: “Unbelievably, close inspection of the photograph revealed that it too had been digitally altered.” The suggestion is that the image was doctored to hide an injury or evidence of man-handling. But Young says he “tweaked” the image to remove a spinifex twig from feathers that spoiled it.

Young discovered the night parrot in the spinifex-clad ranges of the vast Brighton Downs cattle property. Bush Heritage Australia in 2016 bought a 56,000 area frequented by the parrot called Pullen Pullen Reserve. University of Queensland scientists have taken over research begun by Young and Murphy on the reserve to assess the status and behaviour of the bird. Adjacent to Pullen Pullen, a similar research project is under way in the 507,000ha Diamantina National Park.

After Young parted company with Murphy and Bush Heritage Australia, he was hired in 2016 by Atticus Fleming, the long-serving chief executive of another big private conservation group, the Australian Wildlife Conservancy. Under an agreement between the AWC and the Queensland Government, Young is undertaking night parrot research in the park. Fleming abruptly quit the organisation last week for unknown reasons; the AWC issued a brief statement saying it had accepted his resignation.

Although two teams of night parrot researchers are working close to each other, they are not co-operating or exchanging crucial information that would enhance the prospects of mapping out plans to protect the bird. Young was working with the AWC for several months when the organisation announced he had found parrots at seven sites, including three nests, in Diamantina National Park. The AWC has also announced that Young discovered new parrot populations at Goneaway National Park, east of Diamantina, and in northern South Australia.

Steve Murphy
Olsen says none of these records have been independently corroborated. She says the South Australian claim was based on an “extremely blurry” image of a night parrot feather “perched atop the solid, matted contents” of a finch nest. In the absence of confirmation of Young's records, Olsen says the known parrot population is “small and extremely vulnerable”.

James Cook University adjunct professor Peter Valentine refutes Olsen's claim, saying he was with Young in Diamantina National Park in October 2016 when he heard a call identical to one of the recorded parrot calls. AWC senior ecologist Rod Kavanagh says he has heard night parrots several times at two sites in the park, adding: “I don't understand why these people continue to attack John. We would not be any the wiser about this bird if he had not found it in the first place.”
A tiny population of night parrots was discovered in the Murchison region of Western Australia last year. As The Weekend Australian revealed, one of those birds disappeared after it was caught in a net and fitted with a radio transmitter; its mate vanished soon after. It is not known how many - if any - birds remain at the site. Another night parrot was photographed last year in the Great Sandy Desert of WA when it was caught in a camera trap.

On the basis of published information, the confirmed world population of the night parrot is less than 20 - far fewer than was hoped at the time of Young's 2013 announcement. In her book, Olsen documents how feral cats, and probably foxes, are likely to have played a key role in the parrot's demise. In 1907, the naturalist CH McLennan wrote that it was becoming extinct in the mallee of western Victoria: “...when I find feathers or remains of the night parrot, there are generally fox or cat traces in the soil.” Foxes are absent from the Queensland night parrot sites and cat numbers are kept in check by dingoes. 

Feral cat in camera trap at Pullen Pullen - Pic by Steve Murphy
Olsen describes how degradation by livestock grazing of habitat and changed fire regimes across the Australian outback have had dire consequences for the species and other wildlife. There has fortuitously been little grazing in areas where the parrots occur today. The old growth spinifex clumps they use for roosting and nesting are separated by extensive areas of rock, so the habitat has been spared the ravages of uncontrolled wildfires that wreak environmental havoc across the bird's once vast range.

Still, there are no guarantees that the few sites where the birds survive will remain safe from cats and other threats. As mysterious as ever, the night parrot is hanging by a thread.

















































Night Parrot: More bits and pieces from the new book

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Night Parrot - pic by John Young
I wrote about Penny Olsen's new book, Night Parrot, in The Weekend Australian of 11-12 August, 2018, highlighting research issues between Bush Heritage Australia and Australian Wildlife Conservacy; ongoing controversy over John Young's 2013 rediscovery; and the disappointingly low number of Night Parrots recorded since then. There is much more to the book, however. I'm outlining here a grab bag of notes from the book, with a bit of commentary woven through.

Captain Charles Sturt mounted two expeditions through the Australian outback in search of an inland sea. He didn't find a sea, but his expedition naturalist, John McDouall Stuart, collected the first specimen of a night parrot in 1845 on the second of these forays. The bird was shot on the western edge of Lake Lady Blanche in northern South Australia. Thought initially to be a Ground Parrot, it was not until 1861 that John Gould recognised it as a new species. Sturt noted the bird had “dark green plumage mottled with black”.

A total of just 28 Night Parrot specimens are known, 22 collected by Frederick Andrews in South Australia. All but one of Andrews' birds were taken in the Gawler Ranges of northern Eyre Peninsula in the 1870s and early-1880s. Andrews made observations similar to those noted at Pullen Pullen Reserve in south-west Queensland, where Young made his discovery. For instance, Andrews says “in some instances I have known them to fly a distance of 4 or 5 miles”; the distance of 6.4-8km is similar to that undertaken nightly by parrots at Pullen Pullen. 

In the book, Olsen chronicles numerous expeditions mounted to search for the bird after its numbers crashed in the 1880s, when the last confirmed specimen was collected. A specimen claimed in 1912 by Martin Bourgoin from Western Australia was lost and cannot be verified, although Olsen appears to accept its authenticity.


Among the more enthusiastic Night Parrot searchers was Boer War veteran Samuel White, who conducted numerous expeditions in the 1910s and 1920s to “every haunt where there was a record of the bird having been seen in the early days”. Often White was accompanied by his wife Ethel, who was such a novelty in the outback that she often was the first white woman seen by Aborigines. Olsen clearly hasa soft spot for Australian history. While some of her accounts of the early ornithogists are entertaining, there is a great deal of biographicalinformation in the book that has nothing to do with Night Parrots.

While no Night Parrots were recorded with certainty in Queensland until a deadbird was found near Boulia in 1990, there were plenty of unconfirmed reports. Doctor-cum-ornithologist William Macgillivray wrote in 1920 that four “extremely rare spinifex or night parrots” were seen on Nappa Merrie Station by Clive Conrick around the Cooper Creek in the Channel Country. Conrick's neighbour, Albert Walker, managed the neighbouringInnamincka Station across across the border in South Australia; Walker recorded thathe “frequently” saw Night Parrots until1885, when there was an invasion of feral cats.

Cats feature also in the writings of CH McLennan in 1907 about the Night Parrot in the mallee of the sunset country in western Victoria. McLennan noted the bird's “plaintive whistling note heard in the still of night”. The parrots were “unfortunately becoming extinct” because hundreds of cats had been released in the mallee to control rabbits. Cats appear to be scarce in the Queensland area frequented by parrots; perhaps their numbers are kept in check by dingoes, which had not been heavily persecuted by local pastoralists.

Night Parrot habitat - Diamantina National Park
The night parrot expeditions continued as the decades rolled by. In 1972, 26 technical college students travelling in two mini-buses camped for three weeks by the Diamantina River looking for the birds. They had to give up when bulldust clogged one of their engines.


News of the 1990 Boulia discovery was broken by me in the pages of The Sydney Morning HeraldThe semi-mummified carcass was found on the roadside by Walter Boles, Wayne Longmore and Max Thompson, who were on an Australian Museum expedition. The year before, in 1989, entrepreneur Dick Smith had offered $50,000 for scientific evidence of the bird surviving. Smith was initially reluctant to part with the money; after “spirited discussion” over whether a dead parrot met his requirements, Smith's Australian Geographic Society handed over a cheque to the museum.

A second semi-mummified corpse was found in September 2006 in Diamantina National Park, 200km from Boulia, by ranger Robert (Shorty) Cupitt. That find was made public by me in the pages of The Australianin February 2007. The Queensland Government had kept it a secret for five months for reasons it has never properlyexplained.

It is perhaps surprising, with the benefit of hindsight, that John Young was the first and only person to follow up Cupitt's find, other than a bit of cursory looking around by park rangers. It was in this breakaway country of the Mayne Range, where the boundaries of Brighton Downs Station and Diamantina National Park meet, that Young focused his search in 2007, although he says he had searched other places earlier. Thebird first photographed by Young was just 11kilometres from Cupitt'sdead parrot (that's not in the book).

Olsen is no friend of Young andis relentless in her attacks on himin the book. She sayshe had in the past made “unbelievable” claims about owl survey numbers and discovering Paradise Parrots with eggs. His claim in 2006 to have discovered a new bird, the Blue-browed Fig-Parrot, in the rainforests of north-east NSW was “based on a fabricated photo and a story that grew with the telling”.

Olsen concedes, however,that the July 2013 announcement by Young that he had photographed aNight Parrot for the first time was the “avian find of the century and a personal triumph for Young”. She notes no living person had definitely seen a Night Parrot until then. But in a video screened as the discoverywas announced at the Queensland Museum in Brisbane, there was “something amiss… a wing appeared to hang slightly and the bird's gait was odd”.


Night Parrot nest - pic by Steve Murphy
I detail in The Weekend Australianhow Olsen and ecologist Steve Murphy, who once collaborated with Young but fellout of favour with him, suggest Young's bird was injured and captured to beset up for a photographic session. John Stewart, who was with Young at the time of the discovery, went public to insist the bird came in of its own accord and that the pair wasunaware of any injuries.

Olsen says Young had “indisputably put in some hard yards in tough country”, but his claims to have spent17,000 hours searching over 15 years, riding 11,000km on a bike and driving320,000 km in a vehicle “seem embellished”. Of Young's first photographs, Olsen says: These were not obviously doctored images, as had been the case with the fabulous fig-parrot.”

Olsen relates how Young took Steve Murphy into his confidence, showing him the bird in a part of Brighton Downs Station that was to be acquired by Bush Heritage Australia and namedPullen Pullen Reserve. In Cairns in 2011, Young played Murphy a recording of a four-note call from what he believed was a Night Parrot. Young called Murphy in 2013, before the announcement, to tell him “with great excitement that he had 600 images and 200 feathers” from a Night Parrot. As the two worked together in subsequent months, Murphy “felt that he was on a tightropeknowing that John Youngquickly dropped anyone who challenged him”. Murphy told Olsen he wanted a follow-up plan for further research focused on habitat requirements, detection, threats and nesting.

Murphy was so distrustful of Young that he secretly recorded playback of the bird's call on a USB stick when Young first played itwhilethe pair wastogether in the field, “just in case their arrangement went pear-shaped”. In his field notes, however, Murphy praises Young: “Despite his obtuse manner, can't help but like the guy. Most incredible field ornithologist ever. Egg collecting past really allowed him to hone his skills to an awesome degree.”


The Night Parrot Recovery Team was established in 2014. Writes Olsen: “Finally, the time was right – there was: a known Night Parrot location; funding; an advisory panel; Murphy with his survey experience and scientific skills and political sensibilities; and Young, the talented and tenacious field naturalist.”

Murphy and Bush Heritage Australia refused initially to release playback of the bird's call – or precious little other information - so others could search for parrots in new localities. That stance was criticised by many birders, who felt secrecy over calls and the bird's general whereabouts (without giving away specific site information) could hamper discovery efforts.

Olsen reveals Young was not invited to a secret meeting between Peter Britton, the owner of Brighton Downs, and BHAwhich resulted in Britton subdividing 56,000ha of the station toestablish Pullen Pullen; BHA acquired the reserve in 2016. In a glaringcase of bureaucratic idiocy, the excision was initially opposed by the Queensland Government on the grounds the 56,000hawas not viable as a pastoral lease.

BHA got off to a bad start byevidently stuffing up the naming of the reserve. Pullen Pullen is supposedly the local Aboriginal name for Night Parrot. Olsen says it is an “erroneous moniker”; leading linguists could find no evidence for it in the literature and indigenouslanguages in the area did not have final consonants.

Meanwhile, relations between Young and Murphy deteriorated. Olsen writes ofhow Young became “disgruntled at his increasing loss of control of the situation and the research project”. Young and Murphy were part of a research effortfunded by an offsets grant from Fortescue Metals. Young finally quit in early-2015 following a row with Murphy over the placement of sound recorders.

Twelve months later, Young was hired as a senior ecologist by Australian Wildlife Conservancy. Part of his job is to research Night Parrots in Diamantina National Park, which adjoins Pullen Pullen. BHA and AWC are Australia's two biggest private conservation groups. They work in close proximity to each other on Night Parrot research but do not share information.

Olsen gets stuck into me for revealing in May 2016 in The Australianthat Brighton Downs was where Young rediscovered his Night Parrot. At the time, theinformation was not publicly available. Olsen said I “truly overstepped the mark”.BHA was forced to installsurveillance cameras and implement other security measures to guard against, among others, “overenthusiastic birdwatchers”.

I and others argued that birders could be BHA's biggest ally in its efforts to protect the Night Parrot, but as Alice Springs birding guide Mark Carter said, “instead we're treated like lepers”. I did not in fact reveal where the birds were; instead I identifieda sprawling 420,00ha property in the hope that other searches would be mounted in that region in search of further populations. As it transpires, the hordes of destructive twitchers did not materialise; just a handful of groups have ventured to the remote area to look for Night Parrots.


Penny Olsen
Olsen notes that while the reserve was being established, Britton asked Murphy to write a list of rules for BHA staff after volunteers brought dogs into the area, which was still being grazed by cattle at the time.

Olsen has another go at me because in March 2017 I reported that “glamping” trips to Pullen Pullen were being hawked among wealthy birders overseas, offering a visit for $25,000 a head. Olsen accuses me of a “blatant misrepresentation” of BHA policy, which takes wealthy donors to reserves “to see what they are funding”. Olsen ignores the email which prompted my story in The Australian; it was sent by Adam Riley, the head of South African bird tour company Rockjumper. For the record, Riley says in the email he was invited on an exclusive six-person trip “to see the Night Parrot” and he was in contact because “with your interest in the bird, I thought I would offer you the opportunity”.

Olsen records how it was with relief, given how tiny the south-west Queensland population remained years after Young's announcement, that the bird was found 2000km away in the Murchison area of Western Australia at Mutawa, formerly the Lorna Glen pastoral lease, in March 2017 by Nigel Jackett, Bruce Greatwich, George Swann and Adrian Boyle. Olsen makes no reference to the controversy generated by the disappearance of two birds at that site when one was later netted and fitted with a radio transmitter by the Night Parrot Recovery Team.

In May 2017, Mark Carter and fellow Alice Springs ornithologist Chris Watson “probably” detected a Night Parrot call on a sound recorder south of Alice Springs. Olsen says it is ironic that Carter and Watson vowed not to share location data for the site given they were “among the most vocal critics of the need for initial secrecy regarding Pullen Pullen”. Carter says in response that the issue at the time of the Pullen Pullen stand-off was whether call recordings should be released, not whether the site should remain secret.

In October 2017, a Night Parrot in flight was captured in a camera trip near Mulan in the Great Sandy Desert of WA. Young says he has found Night Parrots at several sites in Diamantina National Park as well as in the Goneaway National Park further east, and in Kalamurina Sanctuary in northern South Australia. Olsen claims in the book that none of these records are confirmed but AWC, ecologist Rod Kavanagh and academic Peter Valentine have disputed this.

Young was not interviewed by Olsen for the book although Murphy was, and at length. Olsen says Young was invited to contribute an account of his discovery but nothing was received. There is a good deal of material about the birds' behaviour and movements in Pullen Pullen, almost all of it from Murphy, which I won't repeat here as it is already in the public arena. The book will be published next month by CSIRO Publishing, RRP $50, 360pages.




























Red-legged Crake, Blue-winged Pitta in Singapore

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Red-legged Crake
We had a 3-day stopover in Singapore en route to Africa, staying at the Robertson Quay Hotel. The first morning we hooked up with Martin Kennewell, a well-known local birder, who took us to a spot in north-west Singapore, in Lim Chu Kang. Here we eventually got on to a Blue-winged Pitta that had been hanging around for a couple of weeks in a small patch of regrowth forest. This species is usually rare in Singapore at this time of year and one Bill and I had both missed previously in Asia, so we were pretty chuffed. Unfortunately it didn't pose for an image.

Red-legged Crake
The next morning we were off to Singapore's Botanic Gardens, probably the best place in the world to see Red-legged Crake, another much-wanted bird both of us had missed previously. We found one exactly where Martin said - just south-east of Lake Symphony. It was strutting around among the Heliconia patches between the lake and forest - quite in the open and oblivious to the many passers-by. It was in fact no less shy than the White-breasted Waterhens that were about. Evidently it is only relatively recent years that the crakes have moved in to the gardens.

Blue-winged Pitta twitch

White-breasted Waterhen 
Singapore Botanic Gardens



ETHIOPIA PART A – Addis Ababa to Melka Ghebdu

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Abyssinian Ground-Hornbill
The first day of our 23-day sojourn to Ethiopia was one of rest after a nightmare early morning flight from Singapore. We met our guide for the trip, Abiy Dagne of Ethiopian Birding (abiybird@gmail.com), who is highly recommended. Abiy and I had spent some time nutting out an itinerary and his execution of the trip was flawless. Abiy is a superb birder with excellent site knowledge and a good companion to boot; nothing is too much trouble for him.

White-winged Flufftail
The following day we met our driver for the trip, the amiable and capable Sisay, and took in some of the sights of the capital including the National Museum and Trinity Cathedral. Birds were everywhere about Addis. We saw our first Ethiopian highland specialties – Brown-rumped Seedwater and Abysinnian Slaty-Flycatcher. Dusky Turtle-Dove was common and the first of many Swainson's Sparrows were noted. It quickly became obvious that birds are not heavily hunted in Ethiopia; much like in India, they are quite approachable and numerous in populated areas. Other birds common around the city included Streaky Seedeater, Baglafecht Weaver and Ruppell's Robin-Chat. We spotted our first Thick-billed Raven.

Abyssinian Slaty-Flycatcher

Brown-rumped Seedeater

Dusky Turtle-Dove
Early in the morning of our third day we drove west of Addis to the Adea Bergan Wetland, one of just three highland wetlands in Ethiopia where the rare and much sought after White-winged Flufftail occurs. The total world population of about 250 birds was about to embark on its annual migration to South Africa - this was one species we had not been banking on. We were thrilled therefore to flush two fine male White-winged Flufftails from the marsh.
Wattled Ibis and White-collared Pigeon were common here and we were to see many of both species anywhere in the highlands. Ethiopian Siskin was another highland speciality that proved to be numerous and we saw our first Ethiopian Cisticola. Red-chested Swallow was a nice surprise as a couple of birds hawked the fields in the company of Barn Swallows and martins. Other birds in the area included Groundscraper Thrush, Yellow-crowned Bishop and African Snipe.

Groundscraper Thrush

Yellow-crowned Bishop
White-collared Pigeon

Wattled Ibis
Late-morning we left Addis for the Sultata Plain and the ancient Portugese Bridge and nearby monastery near Debra Libanos – well-known hotspots on the birding map. On the way we saw our first Blue-winged Goose. Several Ruppell's Black Chats were about the bridge. Along a muddy trail near the monastery we had fine views of White-cheeked Turaco, Hemprich's Hornbill and Banded Barbet. A pair of White-winged Cliff Chats was on a wall at our accommodation (Selale Hotel) in the nearby town of Fiche.

Ruppell's Black Chat

White-cheeked Turaco

Hemprich's Hornbill
We left very early the next morning in heavy rain for the Jemma Valley to be in place in time for one of the more difficult endemics – Harwood's Francolin. As the first rays of light appeared over the moorland we saw plenty of Thekla Larks and a few Erlanger's Larks, along with a couple of Red-breasted Wheatears. 
Erlanger's Lark

Thekla Larks
We arrived at the francolin site in good time and found one without too much difficulty along with a few of the much larger Erckel's Francolins. White-winged Cliff Chat and Mocking Cliff Chat were together as we slowly made our way down the steep mountain slope.


Erckel's Francolin

Harwood's Francolin
The specialties came thick and fast. We saw quite a few White-billed Starlings and Abyssinian Black Wheatears. We found several White-throated Seedeaters much higher than we expected. 


Abyssinian Black Wheatear

White-throated Seedeater

White-billed Starling
Ruppell's Vulture was common. Among birds seen as the elevation lowered were Speckle-fronted Weaver, Black-winged Red Bishop and Red-collared Widowbird. 


Speckle-fronted Weaver

Ruppell's Vulture 

Black-winged Red Bishop
We were very surprised to see an Egyptian Plover on a small sand bar before crossing the Jemma River.


Egyptian Plover
The dry scrub along the river bank was the focus of our attention for a couple of hours. Here we found two much wanted rarities – Green-backed Eremomela and Red-billed Pytilia. Black-faced Firefinch was another unexpected rarity. 



Green-backed Eremomela

Red-billed Pytilia
We had Cinnamon-breasted Bunting, Vinaceous Dove, Levaillant's Cuckoo and Black-billed Barbet, among many others. More common fare included Grey-headed Kingfisher.

Grey-headed Kingfisher

Black-billed Barbet

Cinnamon-breasted Bunting
As we left the valley the water level had risen so fast that the Egyptian Plover sandbank was inundated and the bird nowhere in sight. Back up on the moorland we saw our first Spot-breasted Lapwing and plenty more Erlanger's Larks, while it was nice to catch up with old African favourites like Pin-tailed Wydah. A big surprise was an Abyssinian Ground-Hornbill. We checked into the Eva Hotel in Debra Birhan and the next morning headed down another steep escarpment, this time to Melka Ghebdu. 

Pin-tailed Wydah
Birds were again in abundance and we saw Ruppell's Weaver, Little Weaver, Speckled Mousebird and Northern Red Bishop. Shining Sunbird was nice to see, as was a noisy party of Yellow-breasted Barbets. It took some time to track down the local specialty – Yellow-throated Seedeater, but it eventually showed well.

Speckled Mousebird

Northern Red Bishop

Yellow-throated Seedeater
We saw our first Black-winged Lovebirds and a noisy party of White-rumped Babblers as we made our way back up the mountain, along with African Citril and Lesser Masked Weaver. The day ended well with a party of Ankober Serins found without too much trouble by the sharp-eyed Abiy on the edge of a steep cliff at Gemessa Gebel in the late afternoon.

African Citril

White-rumped Babbler
Lesser Masked Weaver




ETHIOPIA PART B – Gelada Baboons to Awash National Park

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Gelada male
Following our twitch of the restricted Ethiopian endemic, the Ankober Serin (see following post) at Gemessa Gebel, we chanced upon three fair-sized troops of Gelada Baboons on the edge of juniper forest near the cliff edges. This species, endemic to the Ethiopian highlands, has long been high on my wish-list. We watched them for some time, noting that they seemed largely unconcerned by us but quickly scurried off into the forest when herdsmen with goats appeared.

Gelada family group
An Ethiopian Rock Hyrax was among the rocks below the cliff edge.

Ethiopian Rock Hyrax
After a second night in Debre Libanos, we headed southwards, back towards Addis Ababa, seeing several Blue-winged Geese close to the road. A pair of Moorland Francolins on a rocky hillside was unexpected, while Abyssinian Longclaw at last put in an appearance.


Blue-winged Goose


Abyssinian Longclaw

Moorland Francolin
We drove through the capital, being stopped along way for an unwelcome and intrusive baggage search by roadside police. We continued south through the Rift Valley and on towards our destination for the next three nights – Awash Falls Lodge in Awash National Park, passing through Adama. We stopped at the Mt Fantalle lava flow by Lake Beseka. Here we quickly found one of the specialties of this hot and arid landscape – Blackstart. This was followed shortly after by a vocal pair of Sombre Rock-Chats, the other specialty of the site.


Blackstart

Sombre Rock-Chat
By the lake were a few waterbirds including Pink-backed Pelican, Yellow-billed Stork and Saddle-billed Stork. We entered the national park and the dry thorn scrub along the road to the lodge held plenty of birds including Mouse-coloured Penduline-Tit, Yellow-necked Spurfowl, Buff-bellied Warbler and Grey Wren-Warbler.


:Pink-backed Pelican

Saddlebill Stork
Yellow-necked Spurfowl
Hornbills were well represented with African Grey, Northern Red-billed, Van Der Decken's and Eastern Yellow-billed seen.


African Grey Hornbill

Northern Red-billed Hornbill

Eastern Yellow-billed Hornbill
The next day we had a long drive through the acacia scrub and plains where mammals included Lesser Kudu, Salt's Dick-Dik, Beisa Oryx and Soemmerring's Gazelle.


Beisa Oryx

Salt's Dik-dik

 Soemmerring's Gazelle
Buff-breasted, Kori and Hartlaub's bustards were all encountered. 
Buff-crested Bustard
Other birds included Northern Carmine Bee-eater, Abyssinian Roller, Dark Chanting Goshawk and Red-fronted Warbler.


Abyssinian Roller

Dark Chanting Goshawk 
Northern Carmine Bee-eater
Gillett's Lark was good to see and Singing Bushlark was present, along with large numbers of Chestnut-headed and Chestnut-backed Sparrowlarks.


Gillett's Lark L

Chestnut-backed Sparrowlark

Chestnut-headed Sparrowlark
Grey-headed Batis was a previously missed species that was good to catch up on, while Somali Bulbul, a recent split, was slightly less inspiring.


Grey-headed Batis
In the tall acacias along the river at the now disused camping ground was a group of noisy Black-billed Wood-Hoopoes. Bruce's Green-Pigeon and Little Sparrowhawk were present.


Black-billed Wood-Hoopoe
Primates were in fine form here with Olive Baboon, Grivet Monkey and Guereza Colobus about in some numbers. 


Grivet Monkey

Guereza Colobus
Olive Baboon
A Nile Crocodile sunned itself on the river bank; these reptiles were also common on the rocks below our lodge.


Nile Crocodile
We headed out at dusk for a nightjar search and were rewarded with fine views of three Star-spotted Nightjars, as well as Slender-tailed Nightjar. Abyssinian (Cape) Hare was also seen.

Abyssinian Hare

Star-spotted Nightjar
On our final morning we encountered a troop of Hamadryas Baboons along the main road, which links Addis Ababa with Djibouti.

Hamadryas Baboon


ETHIOPIA PART C – Lake Langano and the Rift Valley

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Black-winged Lovebird

Following our visit to Awash National Park (see following post) we continued south to the very nice Harro Langano lodge on the south-east shore of Lake Langano for a two-night stay. Early the first morning we saw a pair of Yellow-fronted Parrots in the tall fig trees outside the lodge restaurant.

Yellow-fronted Parrot
We headed around to the west shore of the lake to check out the compound of the largely disbanded Simbo Lodge. Here were loads of excellent birds including Gymnogene, African Orange-bellied Parrot, Rufous Chatterer, Red-necked Wryneck, Bare-faced Go-Away-Bird and White-bellied Go-Away-Bird.

Gymnogene

Bare-faced Go-Away-Bird

White-bellied go-Away-Bird
Some locals showed us a pair of roosting Greyish Eagle-Owls. We flushed a small group of Ethiopian Epauleted Fruit-Bats.

Ethiopian Epauleted Fruit-Bat
We saw several Little Rock-thrushes – another species I had previously missed on several visits to East Africa. Other birds included Rattling Cisticola, Ethiopian Boubou, Blue-naped Mousebird, Mocking Cliff-Chat and Western Black-headed Batis.


Mocking Cliff-Chat



Little Rock-thrush

Western Black-headed Batis

Blue-naped Mousebird
Rattling Cisticola
Red-necked Wryneck was nice to see.

Red-necked Wryneck
We continued to what used to be the main accommodation centre for birders – the now largely derelict Wabe Shabelle Hotel. In the grounds here we were shown a roosting pair of Northern White-faced Owls.


Northern White-faced Owl
Back in our lodge grounds, Senegal Thick-knees were vocal at night, Gambian Sun-Squirrels scampered about and Hippopotamus wallowed in the lake a short distance offshore. African Fish-Eagles were regular.

African Fish-Eagle



Senegal Thick-knee

Gambian Sun-Squirrel

Hippopotamus
A visit to the ruins of the nearby Bishangari Lodge – yet another disbanded accommodation centre – was productive. We had seen Black-winged Lovebirds several times during the trip but they showed very well here, as did a couple more Yellow-fronted Parrots. We had both Greater and Scaly-throated Honeyguides attending bee hives constructed by locals high in the trees. Other birds included Blue-breasted Bee-eater, Double-toothed Barbet and Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike.


Blue-breasted Bee-eater



Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike
Lilac-breasted Roller is always a joy to behold and Broad-billed Roller was here as well. Greater Blue-eared Starling was one of the common birds of the trip but it impressed us still. 

Greater Blue-eared Starling

Lilac-breasted Roller
 Ruppell's Weaver had been seen fairly commonly and they were attending nests here. Silvery-cheeked Hornbills were common.


Ruppell's Weaver

Silvery-cheeked Hornbill


ETHIOPIA PART D – ETHIOPIAN WOLF & BALE MOUNTAINS

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Ethiopian Wolf

After Laker Langano (see following post) we again headed east, this time towards the Bale Mountains - where some of Africa's finest scenery is on display. As we ascended the mountains we stopped at a well-known spot for Cape Eagle-Owl. Some local boys were able to show us one at its cliff-side roost almost immediately. Lanner Falcon also showed well roadside.

Cape Eagle-Owl

Lanner Falcon
Our next port of call was the national park headquarters at Dinsho. Here, the park staff are adept at tracking down owls at their day roosts. We were shown a pair of roosting African Wood Owls, then an Abyssinian (Long-eared) Owl – a much-wanted specialty of the area.

African Wood Owl


Abyssinian Owl
We found a party of White-backed Black Tits and an Abyssinian Catbird in the wet forest surrounding the park headquarters. 

Abyssinian Catbird
Mammals were also about, including the endemic Mountain Nyala and Mendelik's Bushbuck, Warthogs were common.

Mendelick's Bushbuck

Warthog
Our home for the next two nights was the Wabishebele Hotel in Goba, where we had an opportunity to adjust to the high altitude. Thick-billed Raven was common about the town and we saw our first Somali Crows of the trip.

Thick-billed Raven
We had a full day traversing the beautiful Sanetti Plateau, where Africa's highest road ascends to 4300 metres. This was the only day of the trip that we needed to drag out all the warm weather clothes we anticipated needing for cold high altitude weather. A Golden Jackal emerged from bushes close to the road lower down and we stopped to see the local endemic race of the Brown Parisoma.

Golden Jackal
Spot-winged Lapwing and Rouget's Rail – both Ethiopian highland endemics – were easy enough to spot in the low moorland as we continued our ascent.

Rouget's Rail
Spot-breasted Lapwing
We saw plenty of Chesnut-naped Francolins and a Moorland Francolin as we drove across the plateau. A Lammergeier made an appearance overhead.

Chesnut-naped Francolin

Lammergeier
Moorland Francolin
Rodents were in abundance – most were seemingly Blik's Grass-Rat, and were happy to find a few bizarre-looking Giant Mole-Rats.

Blik's Grass-Rat

Giant Mole-Rat
Ethiopian Wolf is one of the star animals of this country , so we were pleased indeed to see a total of 5 of these mammals, including a pair close to the road.

Ethiopian Wolf
We moved on to the Harema Forest – the largest forest in Ethiopia. Here we saw Ethiopian Oriole without much trouble and were pleased to tick off Abyssinian Woodpecker – one of the more difficult endemics.


Ethiopian Oriole


Abyssinian Woodpecker

We found a small troop of another endemic – the Bale Monkey, considered a race of the Vervet Monkey but a good candidate for a split.

Bale Monkey

On the way back, a Wattled Crane showed distantly.

Wattled Crane
The next day we left Gobe and retraced our steps across the Senetti Plateau before descending to the southern lowlands of Ethiopia. We stopped in an area of dry acacia in break-away country and saw some striking White-crested Helemet-shrikes before tracking down our main target for the site – a magnificent Ruspoli's Turaco.

White-crested Helmet-shrikes

Ruspoli's Turaco


ETHIOPIA PART 5 - The dry southern thornbush country, Nechisar National Park & Awassa

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Eastern Paradise-Wydah

We continued south to the dusty town of Negelle for a two-night stay in the Maareg Hotel. Early in the morning we headed eastalong the Bogol-Manyo Road to the famed Libano Plain – home to one of the world's rarest birds. We saw quite a few Somali Short-toed Larks before local spotters who Abiy had lined up found ourtarget – the critically endangered Liben (Sidano) Lark; we saw just one bird.

Somali Short-toed Lark
We were soon catching up with much-wanted southern Ethiopian specialties such as White-crowned Starling and Shelley's Rufous Sparrow. 

White-crowned Starling

Shelley's Rufous Sparrow
Other birds included Bristle-crowned Starling, Grey-headed Batis, Pectoral-patch Cisticola, Somali Bunting, Spotted Palm-Thrush and Yellow-bellied Eremomela. Then we tracked down the highly localised Salvadori's Seedeater in dry scrub.

Grey-headed  Batis
Spotted Palm-Thrush
Later in the day we found a couple of African White-winged Doves on the outskirts of Negelle. Then along the Genale River nearby, a few Juba Weavers in riverside scrub. Birders previously had to travel much further south for the dove and weaver to country which these days is somewhat risky, so it's handy to have them around Negelle.

African White-winged Dove
A very long drive along appalling roads brought us to our next destination – the town of Yabello, where we had three nights in the Yabello Motel. Birds along the way included Pringle's Puffback, Red-and-yellow Barbet, Shelley's Starling, Bare-eyed Thrush and White-bellied Canary.

Bare-eyed  Thrush

Red-and-yellow Barbet
Very early the next morning we headed south, unexpectedly flushing a couple of roadside Montane Nightjars a few kilometres out of town; this is a difficult species that we had dipped on in the highlands. We also heard Freckled Nightjar here. We continued south towards the Sarite Plains, not far from the Kenyaborder. Birds included Rufous-crowned Roller, a fine Eastern Paradise-Wydah in full regalia (first image) and attractive Vulturine Guineafowl roadside.

Rufous-crowned Roller

Vulturine Guineafowl
We tracked down Pale Prinia, another species I'd missed previously in Kenya, before reaching the short-grassed plains. Somali Ostrich appeared in the distance. It took us a while to track down our main target – the range-restricted Masked Lark. White-tailed Lark was also seen.

Pale Prinia

Masked Lark
In the afternoon we checked out sparse thornbush scrub aroundvillages south of Yabello for two much-wanted regional specialties – the enigmatic Stresemann's Bush-Crow (surely a candidate to have its own family) and White-tailed Swallow.

Stresemann's Bush-Crow

White-tailed Swallow
Other birds included Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird, Golden-breasted Starling, Somali Tit, Grey Wren-Warbler and Black-cheeked Waxbill.

Grey Wren-Warbler

Golden-breasted Starling
Mammals along the road to Sarite Plain included Guenther's Dik-dik and Geranuk, while on the plains we saw plenty of Unstriped Grass-rats scurrying about.

Gerenuk

Guenther's Dik-dik

Unstriped Grass-Rat
The next day we took the main road south to Mega where we easily found our early morning target- Black-fronted Francolin near the road. Then we checked the thornbush further north for a host of much-wanted southern Ethiopia-northern Kenya endemics including Red-naped Bush-Shrike, Scaly Chatterer, Somali Crombec and Northern Grosbeak-Canary.


Northern Grosbeak-Canary

Scaly Chatterer
Other birds included Foxy Lark, Magpie Starling and Boran Cisticola.


Boran Cisticola
We left Yabello and visited the World Heritage-listed Konso cultural site before continuing west to Arba Minch for a two-night stay in the very nice Haile Resort, owned by famed Ethiopian long distance runner Haile Gebrselassie. We visited Nechisor National Park, seeing our first Marabout Storks for trip. 


Marabou Stork
We failed to find Archer's Francolin but seeing nice mammals including Bright's Gazelle, Burchell's Zebra, and Lesser and Greater Kudus.


Bright's Gazella

Burchell's Zebra

Lesser Kudu
Our final destination was Lake Awassa where we had a night in the United Africa Hotel.On the lake and in the fringing vegetation were a host of waterbirds including African Jacana, African Pygmy-Goose, Hamerkop, Spur-winged Lapwing, Hadada and Black Crake.


African Jacana

African Pygmy-Goose

Black Crake


Hadada
Hamerkop
Kingfishers were looking good including Pied, Woodland and Malachite.


Pied Kingfisher

Malachine Kingfisher

Woodland Kingfisher
A few Hippopotamus were in the lake.


Hippopotamus
Nearby gardens and regrowth were full of photogenic birds including Red-billed Firefinch and Blue-headed Coucal.


Red-billed Firefinch

Blue-headed Coucal
We we found Spotted Creeper in the hotel grounds.


Spotted Creeper





SOUTH AFRICA PART 1 – Suikerbostrand & Kruger's Pretoriuskop Lodge

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Leopard

Following our 23-day trip to Ethiopia (see following five posts) we flew to Johanesburg for another 23-day trip, to South Africa. We booked into the nice Airport Inn Suites in Kempton Park. South African birding mate Phil Penlington picked me up at the hotel early on our first morning and we headed off to Suikerbostrand Nature Reserve south of the city. This was my fourth visit to South Africa so I had a relatively small number of targets.  We had success early with nice views of one target, Orange-winged Francolin, on a road outside the reserve, with several birds seen.

Orange River Francolin
Inside the reserve on a rocky hillside we easily tracked down a second target – Eastern Long-billed Lark.

Eastern Long-billed Lark
 Bontebok and Yellow Mongoose were seen. Other birds included African Marsh Owl, Spike-heeled Lark, Cape Grassbird and Cape Longclaw.

Bontebok

Yellow Mongoose
We moved on the Marievale wetland sanctuary where before long a third target flew from the reeds a short distance in the form of a much-wanted Red-chested Flufftail, a bird I'd dipped on repeatedly during previous visits to Africa. Other birds included plenty of two shorebirds we don't see much of in Australia – Little Stint and Ruff.

Little Stint

Ruff
African Snipe showed nicely as we drove slowly around the tracks that criss-cross this fine wetland. Other birds included Red-billed Teal, African Rail, Goliath Heron and an Eastern Barn Owl roosting and flying over the marsh.

African Snipe

Red-billed Teal
A Large Grey Mongoose was seen - evidently something of a rarity in that area. We drove around farmlands in the Devan area seeing Pink-billed Lark. African Quailfinch and more Orange River Francolins.

Large Grey Mongoose
In the late afternoon we picked up Kathy Haydon, our friend from NSW, at the airport to join us for the trip. The next morning we headed east to Kruger National Park. Glenn and I had spent a week in Kruger previously and we were eager to get back in there. We entered Numbi Gate and were greeted by our first big game animal – a magnificant Greater Kudu, which proved to be common.

Greater Kudu
We booked into Pretoriuskop Lodge for one night and headed off for our first game drive. We saw good numbers of Common Waterbuck, Giraffe, Impala and Cape Buffalo.

Common Waterbuck

Giraffe

Cape Buffalo
Impala
Then we saw a leopard crouched roadside in dense grass. It watched us for a bit before moving from the grass and crossing the road behind the vehicle.

Leopard
Bush Duiker and Bushbuck were seen before we returned to the lodge. It was a good start for our Kruger adventure.


Bush Duiker

Bushbuck



SOUTH AFRICA PART Part 2: Lower Sabie and Satara in Kruger National Park

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White lion near Satara

Following our stay at Pretoriuskop Lodge in Kruger National Park (see here) we moved on the Lower Sabie Lodge for a 2-night stay. We left early in the morning, seeing a troop of Chacma Baboons as we headed east.

Chacma Baboon
In the morning mist we spotted a Roan Antelope, a rare animal in the park. Then at a watering hole a fine Sable Antelope came in to drink.

Sable Antelope
We saw plenty of Wilderbeeste, Buchell's Zebra and Impala as we slowly drove along.

Wilderbeeste

Burchell's Zebra
We were pleased to find two White Rhinoceros – a female with a large calf – in the scrub. Glenn and I inexplicably failed to see this species during our last visit to Kruger in 1996 (although we saw it at Mkuzi) when it was supposedly quite common in the park. In recent years the population has been severely diminished with the poaching of hundreds of rhino. So sightings are these days much more uncommon than in the relatively recent past.

White Rhinoceros
Soon after we saw our first African elephants of the trip; we were to see many more in the days ahead.


African Elephant
We found a party of Spotted Hyaena sunning themselves on the road.

Spotted Hyaena

Spotted Hyaena
We called in at the park headquarters in Skukuza before moving on to Lower Sabie in the south-eastern portion of the park. Stierling's Wren-Warbler was something of a bogey bird for me as I had missed it in the past. So we tried playback in several places and eventually one showed nicely at Mhlupheka waterhole.

Stierling's Wren-Warbler
A pair of Southern Ground-Hornbills strutted their stuff by the road.

Southern Ground-Hornbill
We had game drives every morning and late afternoon at each of the lodges we stayed at. Lower Sabie had a nice mix of habitat with rivers, open woodland and thornbush scrub. We saw a large leopard resting under an acacia on the banks of the Sabie River.

Leopard
Our first lions were brief views of a male and female, then a fine male early in the morning as it lay stretched out on the ground.


Lion
We found another two White Rhinoceros in scrub south of Lower Sabie lodge.


White Rhinoceros
A pool near the lodge entrance had large numbers of Nile Crocodile and Hippopotomus.


Hippopotamus

Nile Crocodile & Impala

Nile Crocodile
Lower Sabie waterhole
Hippopotamus were also seen emerging from the river nearby to feed during the late afternoon.


Hippopotamus

Among the birds around the dam were Three-banded Plover and African Spoonbill.


African Spoonbill

Three-banded Plover
We then transferred to Satara Lodge for a 2-night stay. Satara is one of the finest lodges for game-viewing as there are extensive areas of short-grassed plains. 


Plains between Lower Sabie & Satara

Sunset at Satara
On the way to Satara we found another leopard, this one partially concealed as in rested in the branches of a thick acacia.


Leopard
More game drives. We found three lionesses feeding on an Impala it had just killed.


Lions on Impala kill
Black-backed Jackal was added to the ever growing list of mammals.


Black-backed Jackal
A waterhole a few kilometres west of the lodge was popular. Lions were here as well, with a large male marking its territory.


Lion
Mammals of various species such as Giraffe, Chacma Baboon and Impala, freely mixed as they came in to drink. Conditions in the park during our visit were harsh and hot, with no water away from the main rivers and a few watering holes. This was in stark contrast to our visit 22 years ago, when all was green and lush following good seasonal rains. However, because of the sparse vegetation, we saw more game during this visit.


Chacma Baboon & Impala

Giraffe & Impala
On a drive east of Satara we came across a pride of 17 lions, including a fine white male (see top image). They nonchalantly strolled past the vehicle without giving us a side glance. The pride was clearly on the hunt, with the lionesses in the lead.


Lion pride

Lioness

Sub-adult male Lion
Nyala was among the mammals we saw during our game drives.


Nyala
We saw our first Common Ostrich in on the plains, while Flappet Lark and Croaking Cisticola were numerous.


Common Ostrich

Flappet Lark
Croaking Cisticola
One evening at Satara Lodge we tracked down an African Scops-Owl. On the second evening we saw an African Wild Cat with a kitten, as well as a Lesser Galago.



African Scops-Owl

African Wild Cat



SOUTH AFRICA PART 3: Kruger's Olifants & Orphen lodges plus Taita Falcon

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African Elephant bull

Following our stay at Satara (see here) we headed north to Olifants Lodge, known for beautiful views atop cliffs across the Olifants River towards the Mozambique border. 


Olifants River
On the way and around Olifants we found many more elephants, including some fine bulls and large family groups.

Cow elephant with calf

Elephant & Impala
It's impossible to tire of seeing Giraffe, and they were quite numerous throughout Kruger.

Giraffe

Giraffe

Greater Kudu, Burchell's Zebra, Impala
Plenty of waterbirds were about the river including African Openbill, and Saddle-billed Storks mixing it with Impala. Kori Bustard was quite common in more open areas.


Saddle-billed Stork & Impala


African Openbill

Kori Bustard
This trip was primarily for mammal-spotting so birds were not a high priority. But we were happy enough to see nice birds including Lilac-breasted Roller, Arrow-marked Babbler, Grey-headed Bush-shrike, Southern White-crowned Shrike and Magpie Shrike.

Arrow-marked Babbler

Lilac-breasted Roller

Grey-headed Bush-shrike

Southern White-crowned Shrike

Magpie Shrike
Crested Francolin, Red-necked Spurfowl and Natal Spurfowl were common.

Crested Francolin

Natal Spurfowl
Raptors included White-backed, White-headed and Lappet-faced vultures, Bateleur, Martial Eagle and Black-breasted and Brown snake-eagles.

Bateleur

Black-chested Snake-Eagle

Martial Eagle

White-backed Vulture

White-headed Vulture
We saw Slender Mongoose and Dwarf Mongoose roadside a few times, along with South African Ground-Squirrel.

Dwarf Mongoose

Slender Mongoose

South African Ground-Squirrel
Small ruminants included plenty of Steenbock.


Steenbok
 At Olifants I joined a morning walking expedition along the river with two armed park rangers. I'd been told this is a good plan for seeing Pel's Fishing-Owl, another bogey I'd dipped on several times during past visits. The rangers tracked down a fishing-owl and it was a great pleasure to watch it perched high in the foliage and as it flew to another tree. The rangers then found the shed skin of a large black mamba.

Rangers with black mamba skin.



Pel's Fishing-Owl

Pel's Fishing-Owl

We were walking along the river bank when a large male leopard appeared just 30 metres away. We were upwind and it was looking the other way so didn't notice us. It soon heard us though and melted into the scrub. Nearby were the remains of an Impala it had killed and dragged up a tree.


Leopard

Leopard's Impala kill
We headed south from Olifants towards our last lodge in Kruger – an overnight stay in Orphen. We hadn't gone far when we ran into a female leopard with a cub by the road. Leopard can be easy to miss in Kruger but we saw a total of six in five encounters; Glenn and I saw just one during our last visit. However we failed to see Cheetah, which we saw last time though it is scarce in the park.


Leopard with cub (rear)
Further south we stopped at a waterhole that was productive on the way up. Large numbers of zebra and wilderbeeste were drinking and on both occasions, they were watched carefully by lions. On our return visit, a sub-adult male lion that had been watching from long grass rushed at what seemed to be lightning speed towards some zebras by the water. They were able to avoid the lion and escape amid a cloud of dust.


Burchell's Zebra & Wilderbeeste
We saw lions again as we continued eastwards. We were to see a total of 28 lions during eight encounters. 


Lion
We stopped at a picnic spot for lunch – one of the few places in the park where you are allowed to leave the vehicle, which can be frustrating. Large numbers of small birds were coming in to drink at birdbaths provided, including Blue Waxbill and Red-billed Firefinch. Earlier we had seen large numbers of Red-billed Quelea, supposedly the world's commonest bird.

Red-billed Firefinch & Blue Waxbill

Red-billed Quelea
As stopped again at the waterhole near Satara that was so productive earlier in the trip. A very large herd of Cape Buffalo were wallowing in what was left of the mud.


Cape Buffalo
We were delighted to find at Orphen that our lodge was right by the fence and overlooking a watering hole. We spent our last afternoon in the park not on a game drive but relaxing as we watched the spectacle. A group of elephants came in to drink.


Elephants at the waterhole
Then three rhino came to drink, hanging about outside the compound at close quarters for about an hour. Earlier in the day we saw another pair of rhino near the road. So we saw a total of 13 White Rhinoceros in five encounters, far more than we could have hoped for.


Rhino at the waterhole
Towards sunset a large group of Cape Buffalo came to the water and camped for the night in the surrounding scrub. Spotted Hyaenas were also about, prowling the fence line for food scraps and calling during the night.


Buffalo at the waterhold
The next morning we left the park, heading west towards Johannesburg. We stopped at Abel Erasmus Pass, a beautiful spot in the Drakensburg Range known for its nesting pair of Taita Falcon. The falcons nest above a line of curio shops and we were told to summon a local lad, Michael. 


Taita Falcon site
We found the bird perched high and distantly above the road before Michael turned up. He had a scope, however, which we didn't, so it was nice to get a better view.


Taita Falcon


SOUTH AFRICA PART 4: Cape Town to Honeywood: Victorin's & Knysna Warbler, Larks of Algulhas

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Victorin's Scrub-Warbler

Following our visit to Kruger National Park and Johannesburg, we flew to Cape Town, surely one of the world's finest cities. As usual, the imposing Table Mountain behind a stunning coastline did not disappoint. We had a nice apartment hired through Airbnb which overlooked the coast and Robben Island. Our first day saw us up on the mountain summit courtesy of that draw-dropping cable car ride.

Table Mountain, from Cape Town waterfront

Table Mountain, from summit
Cape Rock Hyrax was about the mountain top as usual.

Cape Rock Hyrax
Our second day had us pottering about the city after we couldn't get a seat on a ferry to Robben Island. Day three and we headed south to the Cape Peninsula, Cape of Good Hope and Cape Hope. The coastal scenery was something to see and proteas and other wildflowers in the fynbos were in full bloom everywhere we went. The region had been suffering severe drought but we were fortunate because good late-autumn rains had fallen, ensuring a bumper wildflower season.

Cape Hope

Cape of Good Hope

Cape Peninsula

Proteas, Cape of Good Hope
Nice birds included Grey-backed Cisticola, Common Ostrich, Cape Robin-Chat, Malachite Sunbird, Orange-breasted Sunbird and Cape Cormorant.




Cape Cormorant

Grey-backed Cisticola

Malachite Sunbird

Orange-breasted Sunbird
Common Ostrich
We moved on to the pretty coastal village of Simonstown, where a small colony of African Penguins is thriving.

African Penguin
After our Cape Town visit we headed east through Swellendam to check out the Agulhas Plain on the road to Malaga, about 10 km south of the highway. I was after two target birds – Cape (Agulhas) Clapper Lark and Agulhas Long-billed Lark – and these were found without too much trouble. Other birds included Red-capped Lark, Long-billed Pipit and Sickle-winged Chat.

Cape Clapper Lark
We moved on to our accommodation for the next three nights – the delightful Honeywood Lodge, our base for exploring the adjoining Grootvadersbosch Nature Reserve in the Landeberg Range. We saw our first Blue Crane for the trip on the way.

Our rooms at Honeywood Lodge

View from Honeywood Lodge
Birds around the lodge included Cape Weaver, Lesser Honeyguide, Swee Waxbill and Fiscal Flycatcher. I was pleased to see a Black Harrier hawking the fields as we watched a stunning sunset from our lodge verandah.


Cape Weaver

Swee Waxbill
On our first morning at Honeywood we were in the fynbos above the reserve. Here I tracked down a Victorin's Scrub-Warbler, a bird I'd looked hard for without success during my last visit to the Cape. Later I heard one calling just below the lodge.  We moved down to the mosaic of tracks cut through the wet forest of the Grootvadersbosch Reserve, the westerly range limit for quite a few South African birds. Here we found another bogey bird, Knysna Warbler. We ended up hearing 5 or 6 birds over a couple of days and saw it three times, including a good view, but the skulker refused to be photographed. 


Grootvadersbosch Reserve - fynbos meets forest

Grootvadersbosch Reserve forest
Other birds in the forest on this and the following day included Cape Batis, African Dusky Flycatcher, Sombre Greenbul, Red-chested Cuckoo and Terrestial Brownbul. We saw Olive Woodpecker and then finally had brief views of a Knysna Woodpecker, another target.


African Dusky Flycatcher

Cape Batis

Red-chested Cuckoo
Birds in more open areas around the lodge and park headquarters included Brimstone Canary, Greater Striped Swallow Cape Canary and Olive Thrush.

Brimstone Canary



SOUTH AFRICA PART Part 5: Swellendam to West Coast National Park

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Southern Black Korhaan

Following our stay at Honeywood Lodge (see here) we headed north-west to Paternoster on the coast north of Cape Town for a 3-night stay, in another nice lodging booked through Air Bnb. We travelled via Karoopoort and Ceres to take in the bottom end of the Karoo ecosystem. 
We failed to find Cinnamon-breasted Warbler in a couple of likely looking spots and did not have time to head further north to the main sites for this species. In the karoo and rocky outcrops we saw Karoo Prinia, White-backed Mousebird, Pale-winged Starling and Fairy Flycatcher. 


Karoo Prinia

White-backed Mousebird
We also saw a couple of Klipspringer.


Klipspringer
Paternoster is a delightful town with boulder-strewn beaches and buildings structured around classic Cape Dutch-style architecture.


Coast near Paternoster

Paternoster town
On our first morning at Paternoster we drove east to St Helena Bay. In roadside fields were numerous larks including the western race of Cape Clapper Lark, a likely split, and plenty of Red-capped Larks and Large-billed Larks.


Large-billed Lark
Other birds included White-throated Swallow, Southern Red Bishop, Capped Wheatear, Familiar Chat and White-throated Swallow. 


White-throated Swallow

Southern Red Bishop

Capped Wheatear

We caught up with two targets missed on previous trips – Grey Tit and the diminutive Cape Pendulite-Tit in the strandveld vegetation.


Grey Tit

Southern Penduline-Tit
Other birds in the strandveld included Karoo Scrub-Robin and Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler.


Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler
Blue Crane was plentiful in the area and Spotted Thick-knees were about in areas with open ground.


Blue Crane & Sacred Ibis

Spotted Thick-knee

 European Bee-eaters had arrived in numbers for their annual summer visit.


European Bee-eater
In the afternoon we visited the Lighthouse Reserve south of Paternoster. Cape Spurfowl was numerous and White-fronted Plover was on the beaches in numbers.


Cape Spurfowl

White-fronted Plover
Offshore we saw several fairly distant Southern Right-backed Whales, while Cape Gannet was plentiful.


Cape Gannet

Southern Right Whale
Southern Double-collared Sunbird was common about our lodge. Kelp Gull and Speckled Pigeon were abundant around the town.


Kelp Gull & Speckled Pigeon

Southern Double-collared Sunbird
Later in the afternoon I drove along another side road off the Vredenburg-Paternoster road and succeeded in finding another target – Cape Long-billed Lark.


Cape Long-billed Lark
The next day we visited the West Coast National Park, where wildflowers were in abundance amid a magnificent coastal vista of sweeping strandveld plains, lagoons and coastal dunes.


West Coast National Park

West Coast National Park

West Coast National Park

West Coast National Park
At Seebook Lookout, not far from the park's northern end, we flushed a male Southern Black Korhaan – another much-wanted South African endemic – and then a second korhaan. Grey-winged Francolin was also here.


Southern Black Korhaan
Yellow Bishop was an inquisitive visitor at a lunch stop.


Yellow Bishop
We saw two Black Harriers, surely one of the most impressive raptors, separately hawking the strandveld.


Black Harrier
Around the lagoons were Greater Flamingo, Lesser Flamingo, Cape Teal, Kittlitz's Plover and African Marsh-Harrier.


Cape Teal

Greater Flamingo

Kittlitz's Plover
During our return to Cape Town the following day via the Darling Wildflower Route, we found a pair of Southern Black Korhann roadside (first image of this post). We flew to Johannesburg for an overnight stay before flying home.

WESTERN AUSTRALIA PART 1 – Cervantes to Dalwallinu: Copperback & Western Quail-thrush

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Copperback  Quail-thrush
I've returned from a 19-day sojourn (October 14-November 2, 2018) 
through southern Western Australian with my American/Panamanian birding friends Dodge and Lorna Engleman. Many thanks to Dan Mantle, Plaxy Barratt and Frank O'Connor for their generous assistance in planning sites for this trip. I met Dodge and Lorna in Perth and we headed north for our first night at Cervantes, calling in at the Pinnacles in Nambung National Park. Fabulous scenery as usual and a White-backed Swallow showed nicely.

Pinnacles
The next morning we had a pair of Blue-breasted Fairy-wren at Lake Thetis outside town before heading north again to Jurien Bay, then east to the small Wandoo Forest Reserve. We saw a few Western Corella (race derbyi) here and Western Gerygone was calling vigorously. 

Western Corella


Western Gerygone 
We continued in a north-easterly direction to the western end of the mulga belt of WA. We took a dirt track north of the tiny roadside station of Pindar in a successful search for Copperback Quail-thrush. Dan and Plaxy put me on to this and I was surprised the species occurred so far west. They were in the vicinity of the famed wreath flowers, which were in full bloom.

Wreath flowers

Copperback Quail-thrush
We continued east for a 2-night stay in the Yalgoo Caravan Park. I found during an earlier trip through this part of the world that Yalgoo is good birding country. Not far out of town we had a nice mixed flock of Black Honeyeater, White-fronted Honeyeater, Pied Honeyeater and Crimson Chat. We were to see plenty of the latter three species over the next few days.

Black Honeyeater

Crimson Chat
We had a party of Bourke's Parrot just north of Yalgoo.

Bourke's Parrot
A male Redthroat put on a show on the main road to the east of town, as did a confiding pair of Varied Sittella.  A few White-browed Treecreepers were about as were both Grey-crowned and White-browed Babblers.

Redthroat

Varied Sittella
White-browed Treecreeper
Also north of the town in a mineral exploration area we were shown a party of about 30 Inland Dotterel - a species we didn't expect to encounter. Banded Lapwing was more predictable.

Banded Lapwing

Inland Dotterel

Inland Dotterel
We continued east for a 2-night stay in Kirkalocka, a former sheep station that has become something of an ecotourism destination. This site is one of the more reliable for the often difficult Western Quail-thrush, and it took us a while to track them down. We eventually found quite a large group of 6-8 individuals including several juveniles.

Western Quail-thrush

Western Quail-thrush habitat - Kirkalocka

Kirkalocka Station
Slaty-backed Thornbill was high on the wishlist and we finally found a couple among the numerous Chestnut-rumped Thornbills (including plenty of dark-eyed juveniles).


Chestnut-rumped Thornbill

Slaty-backed Thornbill
 Red-tailed Black Cockatoo and Crested Bellbird were commonly encountered as we checked out the property.


Crested Bellbird

Red-tailed Black Cockatoo
Black-eared Cuckoo was another uncommon species we hoped to connect with and we succeeded in doing so. A Black-tailed Native-hen was skulking by a small dam nearby.


Black-eared Cuckoo

Black-tailed Native-hen
We were surprised to encounter two Broad-banded Sand-Swimmers in the toilet of the lovely old mudbrick home that we stayed in.


Broad-banded Sand-Swimmer

Kirkalocka homestay

A male Western Bowerbird was vigorously defending its bower against rivals in the garden of the property's owners.


Western Bowerbird

Western Bowerbird
We headed further south to check out mixed mallee-shrubland-mulga country along the Mt Gibson Road. Here we found another Copperback Quail-thrush along with Bourke's Parrot, Shy Heathwren and Southern Scrub-Robin, along with our first Rufous Treecreeper for the trip.


Southern Scrub-robin
We spent our next night in a motel in the wheatbelt town of Dalwallinu. The following morning we had a few more Western Corellas along the road before finding yet another group of Pied Honeyeater, White-fronted Honeyeater and Crimson Chat at 27km south of the town - somewhat southerly for these arid zone birds.


Pied Honeyeater
On a salt lake 33km south of Dalwallinu we were delighted to come across about 400 Banded Stilts - a species we thought we might be struggling with.


Banded Stilt

Banded Stilt


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