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Europe 2023 Part 3 Birding Portugal and Spain

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White-headed Duck

Following our visit to Scotland (following post) we checked out the English town of Liverpool before flying to Porto in Portugal. A few days sight-seeing here before hopping on to the train to Lisbon. One bird on my wishlist was Iberian Chiffchaff but I thought with the time of our visit (early October) the birds would have headed south on migration. This was a particularly warm autumn, however, so plenty of migrants were still about. I found an Iberian Chiffchaff recorded on ebird while I was in Lisbon at a city park, Jardin do Cobeca, a known hotspot for the species. I went there and eventually located a dark-legged bird giving the characteristic call of the species among a tumble of Willow Warblers. I believe but am not entirely sure that this is the bird in the image below. Later I located another calling Iberian Chiffchaff in another Lisbon park, Jardin Afonse de Albuquerque.

Iberian Chiffchaff

In these parks and elsewhere, plenty of migratory passerines were gathering for an expected exodus southward, possible awaiting a cool change in the still hot weather. These included European Pied and Spotted flycatchers and numerous warblers of various species.

European Pied Flycatcher

We picked up a car hire and headed through southern Portugal, spending a few days in the pleasant village of Redondo and surrounding towns before crossing the border into Spain and a spell of sight-seeing in Seville. We continued south to connect with a much-wanted White-headed Duck, a bird I had repeatedly dipped on. A single female was present in Laguna de Camino and another female in the adjoining Laguna de Bonanza.

White-headed Duck female

Small numbers of Marbled Teal were in the lagoons.

Marbled Teal

Continuing south, I saw small numbers of Scopoli’s Shearwaters in the Strait of Gibralter from several points on the southern Spanish coast, all heading westwards in migration. One bird showed very well at close quarters at Tarifa. Later I saw more Scopoli’s Shearwaters further east off the coast near Malaga. The British outpost of Gibralter was visited, where a dark phase Eleanora’s Falcon and Barbary Macaque showed well.

Barbary Macaque

Good numbers of Greater Flamingo were present at Malaga’s Parque del Guadalhorce. Spotless Starling was common here.

Greater Flamingo

Spotless Starling

We had several days in the extensive forest reserves of Sierra de Andujar, staying at Villa Matilde which I’m afraid to say seems to have gone downhill somewhat and may not be the best accommodation option. This was the place I expected to see Iberian Lynx but searching over five days failed to come up with the goods. Over that time I was regularly in touch with local and overseas wildlife enthusiasts in the area; none of us saw a lynx, though collectively we learned of a total of 4 sightings by others. Visitor numbers to the area have risen greatly, in part because of the lynx’s fame, and observers fear this is impacting the animal’s presence in areas which had been reliable for sightings. Compensation in some form came with the splendid scenery.


And raptors. Spanish Eagle was on my wishlist and several were seen, mostly on the first day in windy and wet conditions. The only one to offer a picture was a bedraggled three or four-year-old bird that passed reasonably close.

Spanish Eagle

Griffon and Black (Cinereous) Vultures were common.

Black Vulture

Griffon Vulture

Iberian Green Woodpecker was another on the target list and several obliged, with none offering a photographic opportunity. Azure-winged Magpie and Red-legged Partridge were more obliging.

Azure-winged Magpie

Red-leggedPartridge

Other mammals performed a little better. Red and Fallow Deer were common.

Red Deer

A single Mouflon was seen along with a distant male Iberian Ibex.

Iberian Ibex

In the tunnel at Jindula Dam I found three species of bat – Myotis daubentonii (Daubenton’s Bat), Myotis myotis (Greater Mouse-eared Bat) and Miniopterus schreibersii (Schreiber’s Bat).

Daubenton's Bat

Greater Mouse-eared Bat

We overnighted in Alcazar de San Juan, visiting the splendid wetland of Laguna de Veguilla. About 25 White-headed Duck were present including several lovely males.

We moved on to the town of Cascante, north-east of Madrid, to look for larks in the Ablitas area around the Ebro Valley. This a go-to site for Dupont’s Lark, another species high on my wishlist that I missed in Morroco and on a previous visit to Spain. Although it’s a bad time of year to see this cryptic species, thanks to help from Dani Lopez and Jose Ardaiz, I managed to see a Dupont’s Lark at close quarters and heard a total of 4-5 giving their characteristic call before sunrise.

Ebro Valley - Dupont's Lark site

Also of interest was a Eurasian Eagle-Owl calling outside our hotel in Cascante before dawn. Three more owls were seen later in the morning in flight. The Dupont’s could not be photographed so I settled for an image of a singing Greater Short-toed Lark. Our trip ended with a few days of sight-seeing in the pleasant Spanish capital of Madrid.

Greater Short-toed Lark



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