North-East India Part 1: Kolkata to Dirang

Greater Adjutant

A three-week trip to the north-east Indian provinces of Assam and Arunachal Pradesh in May 2015 by myself, Tony Palliser and Bill Watson was organised through locally based company Jungle Travels India - http://jungletravelsindia.com/. Our guide was Abidur Rahman and we can highly recommend the services of this capable and affable young man.

Streetside Kolkata

Access to the region is reached most easily through Kolkata, and we arrived a day early to recover from jetlag before the trip and a have a quick look at India's most populous city, visiting local attractions such as Victoria Museum and the Eden Garden Cricket Ground.

Victoria Museum, Kolkata

Coppersmith Barbet

Indian Pond-Heron

Coppersmith Barbet and Indian Pond Heron were among the common south Asian species we saw in the museum gardens. We took an early morning flight to Guwahati, where we were met by Abid and taken to the local rubbish tip - a traditional first port of call for these trips.

Greater Adjutants at Guawahit Rubbish Tip

Here, standing incongruously atop huge piles of rubbish, were 300+ Greater Adjutants - an endangered species for which this unlikely site has become a major stronghold. Foraging in the refuse for saleable scraps alongside the adjutants were a large number of poor villagers, mostly from Bangladesh. The adjutants were oblivious to these folk but quaintly were quick to fly away when we westerners approached. Also at the dump were Striated Grassbird and Citrine Wagtail.

The Show Gets on the Road - Greg, Tony, Bill

Nameri Eco-Camp

We moved on to Nameri National Park and the pleasant Nameri Eco Camp. On the way, birds
seen included the only Black-bellied Terns of the trip and several Lesser Adjutants among the numerous Asian Openbills in the wetlands, grasslands and paddy fields of the Assam lowlands. In and around the grounds of the camp were some nice critters including Asian Barred Owlet, Red-breasted Parakeet, Great Hornbill and Capped Langur.

Capped Langur

Great Hornbill

In the afternoon we strolled to the nearby Jia Bhoreli River, which borders the national park. Indian Cuckoo was common. Nice birds at the river included River Tern and River Lapwing. Birds in the camp that evening included Spotted Owlet and Brown Hawk-Owl.

Nameri National Park

Early the next morning we crossed the fast-flowing river in a canoe. Present on the stony river flats and along the river edge were Great Thick-knee, Little Ringed Plover, Bengal Bushlark and Sand Lark.

Bengal Bushlark

We headed into the lush green sal forest, accompanied by an armed park ranger, to the well-vegetated pools that were the habitat of our main target here: another endangered species, White-winged Duck. We managed to find one of these large ducks at the first pool, with most of the group securing good, close views. We heard but failed to see White-cheeked Partridge here, our efforts frustrated by the arrival of a group of wild (and potentially dangerous) Asian Elephants, which necessitated a quick retreat.

White-winged Duck Pool - Nameri

Other nice birds that morning included Greater and Lesser Yellownape, Pale-chinned Flycatcher, White-throated Bulbul, Puff-throated and Abbott's Babblers, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Ruddy Kingfisher (heard), Vernal Hanging-Parrot, Hooded Pitta (heard), and Velvet-fronted and Chesnut-bellied Nuthatches.

Tokay Geckos

Also of interest were some big tokay geckos. We also came across the fresh footprint of a tiger, while fresh elephant droppings were everywhere.